tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1766857161958800152024-03-06T01:51:24.155+00:00Oil and ThreadBeing a true accompt of the on-going exploits of a self-taught seamsterGavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.comBlogger71125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-773401890827830542017-07-05T23:58:00.000+01:002017-07-07T22:17:56.676+01:00Sewing Machine Surprise!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
A warm, sunny, afternoon near the end of May I had just nipped out of the office to buy some milk and a sandwich. Next to the supermarket in the village where I work there is a charity shop and I can never resist a quick look. Out on the pavement was the unmistakeable shape, black japanning and gold decals of a vintage sewing machine. I had to crouch down and have a little look. All seemed to be there (always check for a shuttle and a couple of bobbins if you see a vibrating shuttle machine for sale) and not in bad condition. Take a deep breath, consider the cupboard space to sewing machine ratio of one's domicile, exhale with relief because there is no visible price tag and walk away from the vintage sewing machine. When I returned to the office I told the team all about the sweet little sewing machine I had seen and how <i>very</i> proud I was of myself for not buying it, for not <i>even </i>asking the price.</div>
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A few days later it was my birthday and, prior to my arrival at work, my colleagues placed a large parcel covered in floral furnishing fabric on my desk. Under the cloth was the machine from the charity shop. My boss had gone out that very afternoon and bought it. She had hidden it at her home for about a week before surprising me with it! She is, needless to say, a very good boss. A brilliant birthday present because the machine needed the usual cleaning and tinkering with as a project so hours of fun before I even got sewing - the gift that keeps on giving right?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRGsmJey1x9avPPpsGqCXpQCXqHFnALIDgdCscQUE5C03_dr7ECieBdV6JOaqpKsloi8dStxq5aG1M5_ZXYkMhTcZzkaDA2Nst9XgdXP6qVHmdJkFoRh_RX784b82W9K9EXjhQ-tTFhXge/s1600/IMG_1577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Jones Family Cylinder Shuttle Sewing Machine badged Victoria" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRGsmJey1x9avPPpsGqCXpQCXqHFnALIDgdCscQUE5C03_dr7ECieBdV6JOaqpKsloi8dStxq5aG1M5_ZXYkMhTcZzkaDA2Nst9XgdXP6qVHmdJkFoRh_RX784b82W9K9EXjhQ-tTFhXge/s640/IMG_1577.JPG" title="Victoria badged Jones Family CS Sewing Machine" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victoria Sewing Machine</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">The Victoria is obviously one of the many 'badged' variants of the Jones' Family Cylinder Shuttle sewing machine. The story that wholesale machines were badged with whatever a retailer fancied is pretty well known. The most common is probably 'Federation' for the Co-operative Wholesale Society and, my secret favourite, 'The Lee' for G H Lee of Liverpool. There are a handful of Victorias pictured on the Internet, so they're obviously not </span><i style="text-align: justify;">that</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> rare, but not much in the way of information about them. I would love to know more about the Victoria brand and where they were sold if anyone out there has and information.</span><div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghkQbBA7g3P2pUCraVQemoG918sz3His4JcbbnXzJdoY9Wq90fDFhred0bOfZ7zpP189YCSMNP5r7e8cMtNQzcEoWcC5DI9k9NFjc6bMr2kIGyT_LEUMZz3NepmuBFujMRIuoj4C2Uuv1N/s1600/IMG_1579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghkQbBA7g3P2pUCraVQemoG918sz3His4JcbbnXzJdoY9Wq90fDFhred0bOfZ7zpP189YCSMNP5r7e8cMtNQzcEoWcC5DI9k9NFjc6bMr2kIGyT_LEUMZz3NepmuBFujMRIuoj4C2Uuv1N/s640/IMG_1579.JPG" title="Victoria Sewing Machine: faceplate and tension discs" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plain polished face plate, note the thumb tab needed to manually release upper tension when removing work and the planned absence of a thread check spring on this model</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipe2CG53JWTWGNy6PW5hH0pCouWUxU4hYEsH_Zya_E2JuLF4n-97HUbg-X_5GiUws-QDtFsgdEYs8SiRD-vi6kVooT8qKBOesinXegMgM7pmOCZBoFIzg0vl0I5eSERY0I3Cs2S2KQUYL_/s1600/IMG_1580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipe2CG53JWTWGNy6PW5hH0pCouWUxU4hYEsH_Zya_E2JuLF4n-97HUbg-X_5GiUws-QDtFsgdEYs8SiRD-vi6kVooT8qKBOesinXegMgM7pmOCZBoFIzg0vl0I5eSERY0I3Cs2S2KQUYL_/s640/IMG_1580.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand crank, spoked balance wheel, inspection plate in rear of the pillar. The base is slotted for a treadle belt and has a lidded compartment for accessories.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_kPfUXAwGXC18NDk2HF5Cd_NwkRHJ2eElsdzIzO_-2Cdb4LTo4-PVONYQEG0kQ9iSgcnZFr_tRCvk_wVUOPzo7ej91OG-8Xoc1cpjKylvzVOVnKVDWWe72dYfExk__APiN7NR5XsMi9uy/s1600/IMG_1578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Victoria badged Jones sewing machine: pivot screw" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_kPfUXAwGXC18NDk2HF5Cd_NwkRHJ2eElsdzIzO_-2Cdb4LTo4-PVONYQEG0kQ9iSgcnZFr_tRCvk_wVUOPzo7ej91OG-8Xoc1cpjKylvzVOVnKVDWWe72dYfExk__APiN7NR5XsMi9uy/s640/IMG_1578.JPG" title="Victoria Sewing Machine: view from above" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The large screw in the top of the machine's arm is a good indicator of Jones' manufacture.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM1oyrq_e1V5EwH59rSrar9tdBWBj6TUOTr8_jgMPz1kPVsYNMPUE_4VhMHZ-jzur390ip7RL3zWdBhYTtzjOHX2ePfqzyGWl7O2ChcIN4kSbmBy6d1da2_I8xqLLWN8SaFL_8HAlqB87k/s1600/IMG_1581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM1oyrq_e1V5EwH59rSrar9tdBWBj6TUOTr8_jgMPz1kPVsYNMPUE_4VhMHZ-jzur390ip7RL3zWdBhYTtzjOHX2ePfqzyGWl7O2ChcIN4kSbmBy6d1da2_I8xqLLWN8SaFL_8HAlqB87k/s640/IMG_1581.JPG" title="Victoria sewing machine: detail of decal on rear of pillar" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floral decal on the rear of the pillar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLLp24Dnwe8e1ufjpZQC-nok29T2O0CZn36rX9ejcl1QaZUZGhdNRE3e7a9b5ZqU_iTuSCtMRdlCnvVder580ol3ROXfCeqyzI_eVZT4YTs-MibnU66qjr6sUXmWCEkDBLxuquGo1KdKPE/s1600/IMG_1582.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLLp24Dnwe8e1ufjpZQC-nok29T2O0CZn36rX9ejcl1QaZUZGhdNRE3e7a9b5ZqU_iTuSCtMRdlCnvVder580ol3ROXfCeqyzI_eVZT4YTs-MibnU66qjr6sUXmWCEkDBLxuquGo1KdKPE/s640/IMG_1582.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of delightful decals</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirijUflgbTZET2gJT66-RtS3j9kmB-FWVmLCzv1NAUvmqGC4UweDYsMF05KWA3sYnjSrN4V_w3_Dt-4bR41tTGgOVObHCzyVk3sXn8eGgnsevT6k4t9QekAY4AjUiF4EKY_4pLzJ1GAeVe/s1600/IMG_1583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirijUflgbTZET2gJT66-RtS3j9kmB-FWVmLCzv1NAUvmqGC4UweDYsMF05KWA3sYnjSrN4V_w3_Dt-4bR41tTGgOVObHCzyVk3sXn8eGgnsevT6k4t9QekAY4AjUiF4EKY_4pLzJ1GAeVe/s640/IMG_1583.JPG" title="Victoria Sewing Machine: detail of centre bed decal" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just don't mention Kilbowie!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIyDq26hpQU-3afhooeJsT17oGSdHWVjoHgkTh-M5dA4FKuPQX8KY0hrik2Ay_px0uxbQwZ9LlyVJBD29cFU6Ws_QvfW788eh48Z3AfAPKhQkNO0rDBqhBzzB79DQjsd7ifqfYlq_QGtMd/s1600/IMG_1584.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIyDq26hpQU-3afhooeJsT17oGSdHWVjoHgkTh-M5dA4FKuPQX8KY0hrik2Ay_px0uxbQwZ9LlyVJBD29cFU6Ws_QvfW788eh48Z3AfAPKhQkNO0rDBqhBzzB79DQjsd7ifqfYlq_QGtMd/s640/IMG_1584.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bobbin winder with new pulley rubber from 'Sewing Down Memory Lane' fitted. Serial number roughly dates this machine to the late nineteen-teens</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNEYRkFdv2Er2s9r4KY70s5C0iljKOrvk9hdQBvgH_ylkyERNmmBbZ9g4eF-dM7CtmvPckJpedFk_GB1pZb71T2AKpbJKZcJ9_bOgdRgxt1HP_1b7flZga6VDVTr2n6MzI3RRk25gc1N8/s1600/IMG_1585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNEYRkFdv2Er2s9r4KY70s5C0iljKOrvk9hdQBvgH_ylkyERNmmBbZ9g4eF-dM7CtmvPckJpedFk_GB1pZb71T2AKpbJKZcJ9_bOgdRgxt1HP_1b7flZga6VDVTr2n6MzI3RRk25gc1N8/s640/IMG_1585.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Missing original rear shuttle race cover was replaced by one sourced from 'Sewing Down Memory Lane'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp5IdpiBSArJiwSpJDOBVvXpGjP1W7WMm3nr_eY63-difAig3RT5pJjbXaxMZ60l4lX6HTkuXAc1FcZYnE_bn44CpUAso3kx9ClVvcHS-rE-0B6Y3KsJk9OaSuV74njbVX9ipZRAICdbl4/s1600/IMG_1586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Jones Family CS sewing machine; detail of shuttle, shuttle race and shuttle carrier " border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp5IdpiBSArJiwSpJDOBVvXpGjP1W7WMm3nr_eY63-difAig3RT5pJjbXaxMZ60l4lX6HTkuXAc1FcZYnE_bn44CpUAso3kx9ClVvcHS-rE-0B6Y3KsJk9OaSuV74njbVX9ipZRAICdbl4/s640/IMG_1586.JPG" title="Victoria sewing machine: detail of shuttle, shuttle race and shuttle carrier " width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It came with a worn-in, rather than worn-out shuttle which is marked 'Jones'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCYs_kJAK4WukN-zUk-XIMdqyweWXaiOqBUtpAWayprXvPj1hXLYqY8ok5yv7MTy4nexqbzmiUSsmesM7l1a8dLeaWHkOFEr1htl5pcShL5eFE81-ej24qGMlKiQT_KytMFHskeKPs6TJR/s1600/fullsizeoutput_76c.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCYs_kJAK4WukN-zUk-XIMdqyweWXaiOqBUtpAWayprXvPj1hXLYqY8ok5yv7MTy4nexqbzmiUSsmesM7l1a8dLeaWHkOFEr1htl5pcShL5eFE81-ej24qGMlKiQT_KytMFHskeKPs6TJR/s640/fullsizeoutput_76c.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Well what can she do? She can sew forwards only with a maximum stitch length of about eight stitches per inch right down to one tiny stitch on top of another. Or, to put it another way, she'll do anything that Singer 28K can do.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAYqNU0b2l63FXV8KQBTYZY9VZ-TWpx5ejDxt9ss8rim8trNVfwp4PZxPHcHcAhMkD5D4hjIXNIFEj8eDyR7p_oM1a8CvVtO54QGXfnm9lnpW5R-LcvMe2M8k2SX97R1A-oWYMkuEEHd_/s1600/IMG_1588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUAYqNU0b2l63FXV8KQBTYZY9VZ-TWpx5ejDxt9ss8rim8trNVfwp4PZxPHcHcAhMkD5D4hjIXNIFEj8eDyR7p_oM1a8CvVtO54QGXfnm9lnpW5R-LcvMe2M8k2SX97R1A-oWYMkuEEHd_/s640/IMG_1588.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">12 SPI or 2.5mm should be good for general sewing and patchwork. I feel a test project coming on!</td></tr>
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Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-73578168507251674302016-02-19T20:57:00.000+00:002016-02-22T19:23:56.854+00:00Patchwork peg bag<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After years of flat-dwelling, one of the nicest things about living in a house, with a garden, is the ability to dry clothes on a line. The wonderful smell of freshly laundered sheets blown dry by a sunlit spring breeze! But this means pegs. We had the pegs laying around in the bottom of the clothes basket for a few months before I came across the perfect pattern for a peg bag in a magazine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here is my version. The front is made up of four strips of scrappy patchwork which is pieced first to make panel which can be cut down to shape and size.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUW5LszTD1fxhMpt_P0bq7ioEmhlXra-AjVDhB-w-5V-5NbnfsQLS12hrzfRvdBh6U2BU8C2gGEZiAFD2Ap3tnl5zjMtCKgE1A8p_GT0aXReplNLq9F8d-nEk7U3L4gOtH2qeRrH6cFu0r/s1600/DSC04565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img alt="Patchwork peg bag front" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUW5LszTD1fxhMpt_P0bq7ioEmhlXra-AjVDhB-w-5V-5NbnfsQLS12hrzfRvdBh6U2BU8C2gGEZiAFD2Ap3tnl5zjMtCKgE1A8p_GT0aXReplNLq9F8d-nEk7U3L4gOtH2qeRrH6cFu0r/s1600/DSC04565.JPG" title="Patch work peg bag" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The patchwork front panel is lined with a cream-coloured honey bee print cotton left over from another project.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmHe_v1GsRCdoxM4y9VatO2QSqFQK0qw6yZcTfpEPiOHjhCT9kHHk-IwBoE5KXMEFT5IxyyHgFSnLEUXClDqxUOsTPlZZiNa1xvH6hK2ABRzgTtrLBN1XLvmm_Xzw-7HhzkgnS6y3ov_x/s1600/DSC04567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmHe_v1GsRCdoxM4y9VatO2QSqFQK0qw6yZcTfpEPiOHjhCT9kHHk-IwBoE5KXMEFT5IxyyHgFSnLEUXClDqxUOsTPlZZiNa1xvH6hK2ABRzgTtrLBN1XLvmm_Xzw-7HhzkgnS6y3ov_x/s1600/DSC04567.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I used an oh so simple straight stitch to finish the seam allowances together.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRc6ltf35tjfMhkbEFtINUKcWxMaY-LZhSILjMaylbK5vG-CTYsRw8ai3B4gzvvAIIJC3vdoTQZqiWJiPOxiK_hNA0SEL_Kka4V2Mhtfv5A7sTnAO5y4EovTmuquiNm0jo10gcWO1GWZnj/s1600/DSC04569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img alt="seam finish" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRc6ltf35tjfMhkbEFtINUKcWxMaY-LZhSILjMaylbK5vG-CTYsRw8ai3B4gzvvAIIJC3vdoTQZqiWJiPOxiK_hNA0SEL_Kka4V2Mhtfv5A7sTnAO5y4EovTmuquiNm0jo10gcWO1GWZnj/s1600/DSC04569.JPG" title="Peg bag" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The hook and crossbar are taken from a child's clothes hanger. Usually hangers are curved. This one happened to be straight but is easy enough to shape the top of the bag to suit whatever you have to hand. A gap in the seam at the top centre of the bag allows the hook to protrude. Very useful to hang the bag on the line leaving hands free for the washing.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUr_QFvdroIE93QfhTaENvyKqj_yXwEAuIgR6cEic7FoVYlUs_mhhZcwtrouBEoTEkXXhzN-rPayjkRJcaRsoa2pH1UnVQWIcMcn_CeMXN8EhYfB2ZFFDNWN-5zbety_z3Mw7-vSUMn3U-/s1600/DSC04570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUr_QFvdroIE93QfhTaENvyKqj_yXwEAuIgR6cEic7FoVYlUs_mhhZcwtrouBEoTEkXXhzN-rPayjkRJcaRsoa2pH1UnVQWIcMcn_CeMXN8EhYfB2ZFFDNWN-5zbety_z3Mw7-vSUMn3U-/s1600/DSC04570.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The back is a single piece but could just as easily be patchwork if you had the inclination. I rather love this cheerful little bag.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX8JHRS2JoJ0X8jnjyJekb54n6BaWA32NN6X1dbT5lACMhoPz6YCV67MOMPPFQUKsTw9gHe6P-HbgDjdpgzgZ76gvoWdV7CrGreYhCFgpqs61vAHJeL0k5iIL3opY3gNyzeE4K2m6LdOE5/s1600/DSC04566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img alt="Peg Bag back" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX8JHRS2JoJ0X8jnjyJekb54n6BaWA32NN6X1dbT5lACMhoPz6YCV67MOMPPFQUKsTw9gHe6P-HbgDjdpgzgZ76gvoWdV7CrGreYhCFgpqs61vAHJeL0k5iIL3opY3gNyzeE4K2m6LdOE5/s1600/DSC04566.JPG" title="Peg Bag" width="640" /></span></a>Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-22985475259809387872016-02-17T21:01:00.000+00:002016-02-17T21:01:18.294+00:00You say pants but I say trousers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A few months ago The Much B<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">elov</span></span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">é</span></span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">d</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> arrived home with two new pairs of trousers both of them of the long unfinished hem variety.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Would you be able to shorten these for me please?" he asked.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Yes of course darling. I would be delighted to help you with that." I replied knowing full well that I have never pinned or hemmed expensive wool trousers before in my life. The last time TMB got a tailor to do this for him I was less than complimentary about the outcome so let us just say that failure, on this occasion, would not be an option.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have restitched the hems of my own trousers on the odd occasion when then have needed repair but I have never tackled the whole job from scratch and I knew I was going to need to top notch guidance on exactly what to do.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I turned to my copy of Roberto Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty Meyers, <i>'Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Women's Wear', </i>(New York 1984). This may seem an odd choice as I was altering gent's trousers but at the time I wanted to buy Cabrera's book the Menswear version was rather hard and or expensive to track down. It was republished towards the middle of last year so I now have a copy of both. The instructions are concise but clear and equally applicable to trousers worn by men or women.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZRUsBHAGTfT_IfffQVVSg03oM8ljcCD7DAM1T4thyphenhyphen9G5_P-GAJWIH28RhYRiHTTuqaj2QF3Zts65ID2duui9XYDhZ833Yrsi_i9lpBV66sIn2daILCmQ3iPfos9OQ-yn24-F49EyAkX3Q/s1600/IMG_0519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZRUsBHAGTfT_IfffQVVSg03oM8ljcCD7DAM1T4thyphenhyphen9G5_P-GAJWIH28RhYRiHTTuqaj2QF3Zts65ID2duui9XYDhZ833Yrsi_i9lpBV66sIn2daILCmQ3iPfos9OQ-yn24-F49EyAkX3Q/s400/IMG_0519.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had TMB try the trousers on with a pair of shoes and pinned up the legs so that the hem reached roughy the middle of the back of his shoe and broke gently on the instep at the front. Cabrera and I both agree that this is the right length for trousers some modern retailers disagree and favour the concertina look! I got him to walk around a bit, look in the mirror and try sitting down to get his approval on the length before he took the trousers off again.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next step was to mark the fold of the hem on the right side using chalk. Wow! Chalk really works much better on wool flannel than it does on cotton poplin. The amount left was obviously far too much to turn under as a hem I would have to cut some of the fabric away.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMTvRoBEXTiek9RPWHjSwpThyCjQs-mTcFi6OdiVzbWe2ygB0FCuevOmgOMdIWCr8LphjIr-QkWB7YnEuT7yXzujh0Sg29HScRe0TWH5cCPpdaJBv5TgumnyUKrC80ZEsx6cKHyaYDHpn/s1600/DSC04601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMTvRoBEXTiek9RPWHjSwpThyCjQs-mTcFi6OdiVzbWe2ygB0FCuevOmgOMdIWCr8LphjIr-QkWB7YnEuT7yXzujh0Sg29HScRe0TWH5cCPpdaJBv5TgumnyUKrC80ZEsx6cKHyaYDHpn/s640/DSC04601.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So I chalked another line about two inches below...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-Xe5ERp63loJQ0X-WK3u1Cf-h3W5ybxJ6dWgKiOfpNXK67y09iKSSx_Hj617dXoAJBpcaqI0A022bv6YR8Rf7uUusx98tPOKbFGlHkXh0fgHg2HBMrl3MBFPAP3EKjbdRz1RIpqX7JUE/s1600/DSC04602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-Xe5ERp63loJQ0X-WK3u1Cf-h3W5ybxJ6dWgKiOfpNXK67y09iKSSx_Hj617dXoAJBpcaqI0A022bv6YR8Rf7uUusx98tPOKbFGlHkXh0fgHg2HBMrl3MBFPAP3EKjbdRz1RIpqX7JUE/s640/DSC04602.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Took a deep breath and chopped. I was VERY nervous about cutting into these but needs must. I didn't really like the way that my nice clean cut edge began to fray so quickly. Maybe I should have used the pinking shears but I hadn't so there you go. I used the scraps to trial a machine zigzag to finish the raw edge but I didn't like the outcome.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0geNA0G1G6nJiSy7V2v2pT3l4_h7_9QYJ90YcjST89-00ZH26PRUnVTLhsUPip86FUjXDjiQG6E4cxD2qDzk0vggYaXZUCF6dumscNXVjJxpL2Gt65FZrvXUu17kJsWlbyP36mj8KCEfr/s1600/DSC04603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0geNA0G1G6nJiSy7V2v2pT3l4_h7_9QYJ90YcjST89-00ZH26PRUnVTLhsUPip86FUjXDjiQG6E4cxD2qDzk0vggYaXZUCF6dumscNXVjJxpL2Gt65FZrvXUu17kJsWlbyP36mj8KCEfr/s640/DSC04603.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I opted instead for something decidedly more old school. Over casting the edge by hand. This is a technique I had seen in an online reproduction of a very old leaflet on seam finishes. It took a bit of time but it sewing by hand without a deadline is very therapeutic, especially when the daylight is good.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixr0__SDoEc_8FfxQCtOX-R7aGtlaKc7r4xaZhnZF7jEndP6X6WAbJsXjOGSH2hkszKCGXA-6xoP5ldOTIvlSRS2W_KbAxUg8wLacIQiGCJ-lRaSWBTchnscuxB8dhonrz_UxVdUs6vZfv/s1600/DSC04605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixr0__SDoEc_8FfxQCtOX-R7aGtlaKc7r4xaZhnZF7jEndP6X6WAbJsXjOGSH2hkszKCGXA-6xoP5ldOTIvlSRS2W_KbAxUg8wLacIQiGCJ-lRaSWBTchnscuxB8dhonrz_UxVdUs6vZfv/s640/DSC04605.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I turned the trouser leg inside out and pinned the hem back up along the chalked fold line.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjZ9-bu7_l8EaRZ47Ic3vj98KLYbfr6yK6O9jQfSBSeT-3ci4PUw2DshiyZaKpp0OWS8iSVHJIFXt0TYH1vZt_MsF-VHoubkM4qtvZB77-0ZJrWg1pwA-JX6kE5TGWOhyphenhyphenPAIs9bVdZEXVk/s1600/DSC04607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjZ9-bu7_l8EaRZ47Ic3vj98KLYbfr6yK6O9jQfSBSeT-3ci4PUw2DshiyZaKpp0OWS8iSVHJIFXt0TYH1vZt_MsF-VHoubkM4qtvZB77-0ZJrWg1pwA-JX6kE5TGWOhyphenhyphenPAIs9bVdZEXVk/s640/DSC04607.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And then tacked the the hem up keeping the stitches about an inch down from the top of the hem. A really great tip is to insert a piece of cardboard into the trouser leg to stop yourself from tacking one side of the leg right through to the other. I used part of a cereal box.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvVXtwqbwYt98687tRzc8xCbdAGAaPXN617175lYMyzLeTkXuCJ8ORLlDwe_PARPFzyr4n8VS323gOb4G61p96Oo1-UkZOD5ItqXRYm5u-SHBUtCrQROCIUtWBHw5DbkwSjO6AQo9YDCbv/s1600/DSC04608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvVXtwqbwYt98687tRzc8xCbdAGAaPXN617175lYMyzLeTkXuCJ8ORLlDwe_PARPFzyr4n8VS323gOb4G61p96Oo1-UkZOD5ItqXRYm5u-SHBUtCrQROCIUtWBHw5DbkwSjO6AQo9YDCbv/s640/DSC04608.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I turned the trousers right side out again and steam pressed the hem flat - nice!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xx6UAEs1PrafFdqvq4OHisBzayi_OOKPEnozEoZob7Jjw9gEaDgOyyk9jmRmSJWj_UpqO8giCEiRIl-FtuyyoLE71HZzbxjaEXV29x2mS7gkf2SkMzZsFKEGnWAfpW_AbJ8VBlHSqWcT/s1600/DSC04609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xx6UAEs1PrafFdqvq4OHisBzayi_OOKPEnozEoZob7Jjw9gEaDgOyyk9jmRmSJWj_UpqO8giCEiRIl-FtuyyoLE71HZzbxjaEXV29x2mS7gkf2SkMzZsFKEGnWAfpW_AbJ8VBlHSqWcT/s640/DSC04609.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I stitched the hems by hand trying to keep my stitches small enough to be invisible and loose enough not to pucker. The result was perhaps not the work of a master tailor but I was satisfied and even better than that so was the prospective wearer. On balance I really enjoyed the challenge. Working with wool was a nice change and I am sore tempted to set to and sew myself a pair of tailored trousers sometime during 2016.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZivWkgu9sXBgIuK30vCS006VPf3C4CM9h31RQk9uCXEVf1-LzxzXp5R3q6Z7_SitTZVXo4z03z8haTBpyJnfO9O0GYaRl6KtjWu_DgCoBpdHbPqjLfzVwLoUqUsk2C47AIaEVQl8WazFv/s1600/DSC04610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZivWkgu9sXBgIuK30vCS006VPf3C4CM9h31RQk9uCXEVf1-LzxzXp5R3q6Z7_SitTZVXo4z03z8haTBpyJnfO9O0GYaRl6KtjWu_DgCoBpdHbPqjLfzVwLoUqUsk2C47AIaEVQl8WazFv/s640/DSC04610.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<span id="goog_37584727"></span><span id="goog_37584728"></span><br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-33229100659202395242016-02-15T22:48:00.001+00:002016-02-15T22:49:57.202+00:00Disappearing Nine Patch - Part II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have sewn all of the three patch rows into nine patch blocks - nine of them in total. The blocks are all basically the same with a red value patch in the middle and a 'colour' at each corner. The remaining blocks are cream.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP804IDsa8LrJK0pbxsuoXAQTb2luX9tN0cvwOW6La-xwiYhDrBmXYoUDeA2sXYNTNYdV2SzIV1PyTx4vwSSOGXc-OHirKP8WqQdRh3EBDdIV04nD-xcV5J6sNfT6oUoMU5Wqhj1fuiGVj/s1600/IMG_0504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP804IDsa8LrJK0pbxsuoXAQTb2luX9tN0cvwOW6La-xwiYhDrBmXYoUDeA2sXYNTNYdV2SzIV1PyTx4vwSSOGXc-OHirKP8WqQdRh3EBDdIV04nD-xcV5J6sNfT6oUoMU5Wqhj1fuiGVj/s640/IMG_0504.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having spent several hours carefully sewing these patches together I am about to cut them up. Yes! That's right - I haven't gone mad. I made one cut vertically down the centre of the block using the seam line to help me. The cut has to be made two and a quarter inches from the seam. Another cut is then made horizontally across the block again two and a quarter inches from the seam lines.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY_XM-bhcenxWMFhBJfPk9kKSQpdHc_xknnMfBusneAIRZPz4UIZesd88SCvjJR_CYiJ_NfimtTTr-FzwLnMjEOBM_z9KPOP1OQD8fjdg9L0q8h25UOeUoMcjVg6drbsuOUHXjGFArHiEX/s1600/IMG_0505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY_XM-bhcenxWMFhBJfPk9kKSQpdHc_xknnMfBusneAIRZPz4UIZesd88SCvjJR_CYiJ_NfimtTTr-FzwLnMjEOBM_z9KPOP1OQD8fjdg9L0q8h25UOeUoMcjVg6drbsuOUHXjGFArHiEX/s640/IMG_0505.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now the nine-patch block is separated to make four asymmetrical four-patch blocks. I repeated these cuts on the remaining eight nine-patch blocks.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOu6E_yZpoxiORl1OwC7NZUQkDPeZwbqnw2a9Ea8x5aj4A3DrzqhBs5Gn7lrdsOoVyQlkEGibZsYKGdlLpoAKydG5mETsVEnIERHRsFlDjM0qwF8F37irO0Ws2GcQXLi2nGKGicruz098_/s1600/IMG_0506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOu6E_yZpoxiORl1OwC7NZUQkDPeZwbqnw2a9Ea8x5aj4A3DrzqhBs5Gn7lrdsOoVyQlkEGibZsYKGdlLpoAKydG5mETsVEnIERHRsFlDjM0qwF8F37irO0Ws2GcQXLi2nGKGicruz098_/s640/IMG_0506.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The result is 36 four-patch blocks - six of each colour.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi74C8zAMmkejgnHkvm0YJ2aJDBH6hBbzKc4I4SArPxzrGd8QfXSHTnKzeyX-dQNoryYL7w71cf3qtMbgNxi_guTPdbQzM535oIgsDjq35mkV_MzQg1k8YE0dQSL_neeT1kL4_ont2_g-kH/s1600/IMG_0507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi74C8zAMmkejgnHkvm0YJ2aJDBH6hBbzKc4I4SArPxzrGd8QfXSHTnKzeyX-dQNoryYL7w71cf3qtMbgNxi_guTPdbQzM535oIgsDjq35mkV_MzQg1k8YE0dQSL_neeT1kL4_ont2_g-kH/s640/IMG_0507.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These blocks have gone together very quickly. Since I shortened the belt on the Singer 201K it hasn't slipped once and the machine, which was fairly enjoyable to sew with, has become a joy to use.</span>Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-76433988793157381722016-02-09T00:07:00.002+00:002016-02-09T00:07:25.552+00:00Disappearing Nine Patch - Part II have decided to start my sewing year with a quilt. I've spent quite a while thinking about what I want to do with fabrics I already have and in the time I have available.<br />
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I have been reading up about disappearing nine patch quilts <a href="http://www.bonjourquilts.com/spring-baby-quilt/" target="_blank">here</a>, <a href="http://sew-fantastic.blogspot.co.uk/2009/09/disappearing-nine-patch-tutorial.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://www.joscountryjunction.com/a-disappearing-nine-patch-are-you-sure/" target="_blank">here</a>. I was taken with the setting which imitates sashing and corner stones and decided that might work with the fabrics I have to hand at the moment.<br />
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Working from the premise that my individual squares would be cut at five inches based on the common size of commercially available charm packs I began to do some sums.<br />
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My quilt will be made up of nine nine patches that's 84 individual squares which would equate to two commercial charm packs at 42 squares each. These will be made up of:<br />
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<li>Nine red for centre of the nine patch blocks - these will become the corner stones</li>
<li>Thirty-six cream for the middle patches on each side of the blocks - these will become the sashing</li>
<li>Thirty-six coloured prints for the corner patches of each block - I cut six of each from six different fabrics</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrTdoXC6y5zr4FVKP-yUmIqOqUmQ3xTEgDZQzz7L6YOAAaSOT1ODkyyDjkuzYogXTPYMK4cbx4sKk8_2TdyeJoDg4MUv9qIHDWFIXsvvgsEBwRDD9tmePZjl0ulgZY6vbZ1Ie2Qsu2tBC/s1600/IMG_0495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrTdoXC6y5zr4FVKP-yUmIqOqUmQ3xTEgDZQzz7L6YOAAaSOT1ODkyyDjkuzYogXTPYMK4cbx4sKk8_2TdyeJoDg4MUv9qIHDWFIXsvvgsEBwRDD9tmePZjl0ulgZY6vbZ1Ie2Qsu2tBC/s640/IMG_0495.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here are all the squares cut out nice and tidy - a couple of hours work over a couple of evenings last week. Speed is of the essence with this project as I don't have loads of time and I need to keep the momentum up.<br />
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The next step was to chain piece nine red squares to nine cream and then set aside nine cream for later.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcaEj4DSIlBzYlDyLIgsSNSRSpglxKbXHDiW85vYLUsnI3buIfSaReHmUTdNvzgB0Uc6gcPpxfN85yKLeJH7MOgRxojc9C0v-iEkV47sXfkaWYHs6R7QuJ8mj9jFwUdd-GRhzUV1nwg_mH/s1600/IMG_0497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcaEj4DSIlBzYlDyLIgsSNSRSpglxKbXHDiW85vYLUsnI3buIfSaReHmUTdNvzgB0Uc6gcPpxfN85yKLeJH7MOgRxojc9C0v-iEkV47sXfkaWYHs6R7QuJ8mj9jFwUdd-GRhzUV1nwg_mH/s640/IMG_0497.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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I am working on the Singer 201K1. I have read that this is the correct designation for a Kilbowie built machine originally fitted to a treadle. I recently shortened the belt on this one. It has made a world of difference. The belt must have stretched making it tricky to get the machine to start and stop. It had a tendency to run backwards at the beginning, run-on when stopping and stalling altogether when crossing thicker seams. I took about 3/8ths of an inch off the length for the time being and now the machine is performing faultlessly.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The thread is <span style="color: #222222; white-space: nowrap;">Gütermann</span><span style="color: #222222; white-space: nowrap;"> 100% </span>cotton and the machine is set to 15 stitches per inch. </span>I used my trusty cloth guide to help maintain a scant quarter inch seam. I chain pieced the 18 remaining cream coloured squares to 18 of the mixed colours, three of the six different fabrics. This is the resultant heap of chain piecing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qM6NLuEnerLzTSWsqVJKVe2A7dK9pYTH8luJOmSa-PWZ2hoyi7oUe15exWFFZscx0L4UnLByIdyKmPOhLdYarwySt1oBfXPL99GTeYsu91Cpg84B3oYKpZafMK1WA_AH4uT2fVe3lMIv/s1600/IMG_0498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qM6NLuEnerLzTSWsqVJKVe2A7dK9pYTH8luJOmSa-PWZ2hoyi7oUe15exWFFZscx0L4UnLByIdyKmPOhLdYarwySt1oBfXPL99GTeYsu91Cpg84B3oYKpZafMK1WA_AH4uT2fVe3lMIv/s640/IMG_0498.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I snipped the paired squares apart and had a bit of a tidy up. Here are the paired up squares stacked on the treadle table prior to pressing. I production lined my pressing. Pressing all 27 pairs as sewn and then open with all seams away from the cream squares. I tried letting all my pressing cool on the ironing board before moving the units. I'm told it helps the pressed seam allowances stay put.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwvkHoOvTOXyFvJEjB146KtKeFFgK-4jcGGStf4Gez9Uhl9RXBgmnrBcgnLxGiO5O-xVLABwYM8byRau35jf9wql21-zwKH5VPFRjnasfwiOA_mRYmy5xniHIUuSm52aktV3jEGByHTAQ/s1600/IMG_0499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwvkHoOvTOXyFvJEjB146KtKeFFgK-4jcGGStf4Gez9Uhl9RXBgmnrBcgnLxGiO5O-xVLABwYM8byRau35jf9wql21-zwKH5VPFRjnasfwiOA_mRYmy5xniHIUuSm52aktV3jEGByHTAQ/s640/IMG_0499.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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My next step was to add the remaining nine cream squares to the opposite edge of the red ones.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJRGvvJwcVwY0pl257xC97ETvsGM-MEKsaqYLHezYf12Jlkzx3XnnooppMVkOxI1LbLcXc8Q7IQyPcUtfG8RTrNfU0incCqEpQEwnIR9gd2PfvfQ7R6Ns0aDz3fnRgIC9P-Qoj1uzOnMwy/s1600/IMG_0500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJRGvvJwcVwY0pl257xC97ETvsGM-MEKsaqYLHezYf12Jlkzx3XnnooppMVkOxI1LbLcXc8Q7IQyPcUtfG8RTrNfU0incCqEpQEwnIR9gd2PfvfQ7R6Ns0aDz3fnRgIC9P-Qoj1uzOnMwy/s640/IMG_0500.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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And then the remaining 18 mixed colours to the other pairs. Selection of the mixed prints at this stage isn't too crucial. The reason for this will become clear next time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05bjKYsOFrYg5ezETGUVJG63bDtcyN-7tz1rj3rnag-u4cQXx-RoEgHWbCcjOZq2r3Mz8tOYWJokbEm1jDwiFsX3nBx8s6_8YlZfRp6Tc4BApOpUF3JVwzNs5d_fMGTUYtDVvwhXzXMPh/s1600/IMG_0501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05bjKYsOFrYg5ezETGUVJG63bDtcyN-7tz1rj3rnag-u4cQXx-RoEgHWbCcjOZq2r3Mz8tOYWJokbEm1jDwiFsX3nBx8s6_8YlZfRp6Tc4BApOpUF3JVwzNs5d_fMGTUYtDVvwhXzXMPh/s640/IMG_0501.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Much more pressing and the nine patches are starting to take shape! From winding the bobbin to taking the last photograph took just under three hours. A nice way to spend a blustery Sunday afternoon.<br />
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<br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-39374037728688774692016-01-20T23:26:00.001+00:002016-01-20T23:38:43.516+00:00Oliver + S: Family Reunion Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBDnrog5q7XhkUNzKZ6C3zh48Z414-VbgGQ45xUBQ-jeDLBEmIAjOxMfutW9YiMjVI6owUACyue0pQXLWk_3n7AOBfFfd8QSA1Ch-86ZsaWELEDHGr4vdXhfWNzzoXuuyxWgKIO-YJ5Bw/s1600/DSC04555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBDnrog5q7XhkUNzKZ6C3zh48Z414-VbgGQ45xUBQ-jeDLBEmIAjOxMfutW9YiMjVI6owUACyue0pQXLWk_3n7AOBfFfd8QSA1Ch-86ZsaWELEDHGr4vdXhfWNzzoXuuyxWgKIO-YJ5Bw/s1600/DSC04555.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is a dress I made around the end of 2014 in readiness for Christmas of that year. I never got around to blogging about at the time. I did however take some photographs during making up. I bought the digital version of the pattern, printed it all out and stuck it together with tape. I don't mind the process too much. My version is sized to 24 months. At the time the recipient was only 16 months but I pictured this dress getting more wear during the following summer and as it was intended to be a surprise I allowed lots of margin for growth. <br />
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I had a nice pale blue 100% cotton print in the stash, a little fusible interfacing and some reused shirt buttons. The apparently simple, short-sleeved, A-line dress has quite a bit of detail.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV21hF7q9Id603rkh_JbSn4AyYWL2Kt__8SLVApp9RK0_sFGo7TeDEiZcHu9MkLRwLz5y2ruqONj8tbatQb-VUsdS_zXKvZcsz1bC0piRb84cWLB_cp9Ya76GR64jwdxGyL2YgsOjqb-78/s1600/DSC04556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV21hF7q9Id603rkh_JbSn4AyYWL2Kt__8SLVApp9RK0_sFGo7TeDEiZcHu9MkLRwLz5y2ruqONj8tbatQb-VUsdS_zXKvZcsz1bC0piRb84cWLB_cp9Ya76GR64jwdxGyL2YgsOjqb-78/s1600/DSC04556.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The dress is shaped by tucks over the chest and back. I sewed the dress using the Singer 201K treadle and used a vintage tuck marker to help me form the tucks. Using the vintage attachment was fun but I would imagine that with careful measurements and thread marking one could easily manage without.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIh9rCcbnpQz22NK1m7v-Sfrg9BtVIdAwDxsqXadWLmMhV-77viq02-y-DfMq5zZkdAG_ETExegdhwArq0PdrelrWNswpgjXHmr17QzRLBPSptthyphenhyphendKgDnlt8tpD3afEhueDmN9MYWa512/s1600/DSC04557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIh9rCcbnpQz22NK1m7v-Sfrg9BtVIdAwDxsqXadWLmMhV-77viq02-y-DfMq5zZkdAG_ETExegdhwArq0PdrelrWNswpgjXHmr17QzRLBPSptthyphenhyphendKgDnlt8tpD3afEhueDmN9MYWa512/s1600/DSC04557.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The dress buttons up the back. I made the buttonholes on the <a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/meet-singer-201k.html" target="_blank">Singer 201K</a> fitted with <a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/greist-buttonholer-1.html" target="_blank">Greist buttonholer</a>. The neckline facing is interesting in that it is turned to the right side and edge stitched in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEe6AczOc_3qJ3-xx4UB1yMukDgfiwftFXCp2ewAJI7hlESQ8D1pBOc-iUnPYcJMQfk5BxIjeaG105mqzvf-m9KXGUUKmYMFjXaKuod9ayVQBVz8teuTd-2a7ayYOtPN2lc0XtkPM3UsSq/s1600/DSC04561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEe6AczOc_3qJ3-xx4UB1yMukDgfiwftFXCp2ewAJI7hlESQ8D1pBOc-iUnPYcJMQfk5BxIjeaG105mqzvf-m9KXGUUKmYMFjXaKuod9ayVQBVz8teuTd-2a7ayYOtPN2lc0XtkPM3UsSq/s640/DSC04561.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The pattern has nice deep seam allowances and gives the usual modern instructions for finishing them with a zig-zag, serger or however else you might wish to. I cribbed <a href="http://lizzielenard-vintagesewing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/a-dress-for-meg-2-felled-seams.html" target="_blank">Muv's flat felled shoulder seams from the child's dress pattern she drafted and made</a>. The sleeves are hemmed, gathered and attached to the armscye before the side seams are closed. I finished the sleeve head seam allowance with a zig-zag using the Singer 401G. This was quick but if I made the pattern again I might make matching bias and use that to bind this seam. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAz8fa-q_kNsyU-Xq3FIOq9N5TFcNEutqSyuMaUKUgG5CNu8erzGBII7U43NnuEHzboc2Pz-8q004QwSRuyZzeH_NqSacAk1v3ug4VWXHE1gaYqB2606NH8WaAHBHAEc7k1AEfGWo6vPn2/s1600/DSC04560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAz8fa-q_kNsyU-Xq3FIOq9N5TFcNEutqSyuMaUKUgG5CNu8erzGBII7U43NnuEHzboc2Pz-8q004QwSRuyZzeH_NqSacAk1v3ug4VWXHE1gaYqB2606NH8WaAHBHAEc7k1AEfGWo6vPn2/s1600/DSC04560.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I used good old reliable French seams to close the sides of the dress which just made my zig-zag short cut on the armholes look even sloppier.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxaCA_wBOdTUPq65VO3ndFc9ySaBOPd4QZR0AsGnhTo92UJJB0kqoSskiQRCaXrFzWCcaXIFzkfS-VIO6QfyVv0BIFSxLvA0ODph2y0NK9JNJy2mAen0EZMmtZF5QdrZVdq7OJf1EB7c0m/s1600/DSC04559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxaCA_wBOdTUPq65VO3ndFc9ySaBOPd4QZR0AsGnhTo92UJJB0kqoSskiQRCaXrFzWCcaXIFzkfS-VIO6QfyVv0BIFSxLvA0ODph2y0NK9JNJy2mAen0EZMmtZF5QdrZVdq7OJf1EB7c0m/s1600/DSC04559.JPG" width="640" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The pattern made quite a feature of what Oliver+S calls its signature hem. This consists of a deep hem facing, worthy of the 1840s, turned to the inside and edge stitched.</div>
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The facing is then decorated with an additional five rows of topstitching spaced at quarter inch intervals. The result is a good looking, firm hem which hangs well and is suggestive of hard wear.<br />
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This was a a very sweet little project to sew. I would definitely make it again and would look at using Oliver+S patterns again in the future.<br />
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<a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blogger.com%2Fblogger.g%3FblogID%3D176685716195880015%23editor%2Ftarget%3Dpost%3BpostID%3D3937403772868877469%3BonPublishedMenu%3Dposts%3BonClosedMenu%3Dposts%3BpostNum%3D3%3Bsrc%3Dpostname&media=https%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F-7wZYc_KetUk%2FVIYQR5QaQUI%2FAAAAAAAABGE%2FvZ21ORSHtVk%2Fs1600%2FDSC04560.JPG&xm=h&xv=sa1.37.01&xuid=nhTJFuehMqZi&description=" style="background-color: transparent; background-image: url(data:image/png; border: none; cursor: pointer; display: none; height: 20px; left: 26px; opacity: 0.85; position: absolute; top: 2494px; width: 40px; z-index: 8675309;"></a><a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blogger.com%2Fblogger.g%3FblogID%3D176685716195880015%23editor%2Ftarget%3Dpost%3BpostID%3D3937403772868877469%3BonPublishedMenu%3Dposts%3BonClosedMenu%3Dposts%3BpostNum%3D3%3Bsrc%3Dpostname&media=https%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F-7wZYc_KetUk%2FVIYQR5QaQUI%2FAAAAAAAABGE%2FvZ21ORSHtVk%2Fs1600%2FDSC04560.JPG&xm=h&xv=sa1.37.01&xuid=nhTJFuehMqZi&description=" style="background-color: transparent; background-image: url(data:image/png; border: none; cursor: pointer; display: none; height: 20px; left: 26px; opacity: 0.85; position: absolute; top: 2494px; width: 40px; z-index: 8675309;"></a>Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-4163967189600602142015-02-10T22:09:00.000+00:002015-02-10T22:09:16.711+00:00Welsh quilt inspired sampler<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I think it is nice, sometimes, to not really know where I am going until I get there. That is how it was with this piece of work. I cannot bring myself to refer to it as a project as that might imply that I had some sort of plan. At some point I had been loaned a Kaffe Fasset book that included a quilt top pieced from a variety of striped shirtings in four triangle squares.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJg0TLsP2bw2pIk9DsMu9RF6mO5VjWfXeK3aRIXX24CV8kbqalzGOTwpt7fUqoX-vyKlNO5xDrqfXGmmNOvhveVuZ6kOIg4nXRPZWRedzk_CBAyHjYdbM5zV0GuznzRMsVeJTwycJdiX4H/s1600/DSC04563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJg0TLsP2bw2pIk9DsMu9RF6mO5VjWfXeK3aRIXX24CV8kbqalzGOTwpt7fUqoX-vyKlNO5xDrqfXGmmNOvhveVuZ6kOIg4nXRPZWRedzk_CBAyHjYdbM5zV0GuznzRMsVeJTwycJdiX4H/s1600/DSC04563.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Well I messed about with some triangles and came up with some less than delightful squares one of which just about looked like it might be a distant relative of something from a Kaffe Fasset quilt (see above top left corner. This was where direction changed both literally and notionally. The nasty squares became the back of a tiny sampler for some quilting</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbIWv3y5VGpmbsTzEUU4QEppnud-3MXnqd-ddeArN8foJBwjmQgazdp-YIA_9tbXPc-8VtecRplKB5xHFAylWj2yC_Wo4mLnTXFkD6xgwEbDtanN1A4PnK-AffYUsjtUbSXYVfY6qSiQc-/s1600/DSC04562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbIWv3y5VGpmbsTzEUU4QEppnud-3MXnqd-ddeArN8foJBwjmQgazdp-YIA_9tbXPc-8VtecRplKB5xHFAylWj2yC_Wo4mLnTXFkD6xgwEbDtanN1A4PnK-AffYUsjtUbSXYVfY6qSiQc-/s1600/DSC04562.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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I had been reading about the wonderful quilts produced in Wales between the first and second world wars. What really fascinated me about these was reading how quilts were marked out by professionals who sometimes stamped the designs onto whole cloth quilt tops which would be sold and sometimes they were marked out by drawing around ordinary house hold objects like tea cups, plates and irons. I was rather captivated by the idea but doubtful that I would find myself marking out and hand quilting a double sized bedspread. Instead I made up a small quilt sandwich and grabbed a tea plate and pencil. I marked out this simple motif of circles leaves and chevrons.<br />
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Traditionally this type of quilting would be done by hand but I quilted this sampler on my Singer 15K hand crank machine making up the infill as I went along. It's a bit wonky here and there but I find the slightly naive effect pleasing. I ended up thinking of the technique as a sort of straight-line-semi-free-motion quilting. I doubt it will catch on but I felt I had spent enough time on this to add a binding. I did a bit of hand ladder stitching on the binding - way too tight just look at all those puckers! I've hung this little oddity, from one corner, on a nail that was in the wall of the sewing room. I don't think anyone really knows what to make of it but yellow and white always makes me think of fried egg and somehow my interest in and appetite for Welsh and Durham whole cloth quilts has been whetted.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIcTHhtcybwXrNCkHdzfqWXM9Jy0JP2YswSQq7HiS22UlKQamEMNjJN9Ssf0bGH7R_XGBHduweO3OqNtZ2QtnQ3w-D35LjalmvbfA-0N4-QNE6Qnwhzy-NOtRU4kO7PYi908LMC1EYrTL0/s1600/DSC04564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIcTHhtcybwXrNCkHdzfqWXM9Jy0JP2YswSQq7HiS22UlKQamEMNjJN9Ssf0bGH7R_XGBHduweO3OqNtZ2QtnQ3w-D35LjalmvbfA-0N4-QNE6Qnwhzy-NOtRU4kO7PYi908LMC1EYrTL0/s1600/DSC04564.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-2438151863643126952015-02-09T22:08:00.001+00:002015-02-10T22:10:46.225+00:00Three little Dicky birds<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />I can't claim this as my own. It's a vintage item that The Much Belov<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">éd's mother sent from the US. I think it is such fun I wanted to share it with you all. I think it is the cutest tea towel I have ever seen and in some ways it's too good to use. I guess this dates from </span></span>the late<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> 1950s or early 60s.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvaAmIcRTrs3I7ZPPJD049Kv1a_eSSJrKFR2FNA-4nhEFr4DcGPGggghKj49x6kKSRZq20TMNHGMZq87xcsw9GiMFGq7zIB0rBa0Xg-kTU2y9vob9KMo6CDorO8p-3Y0sO_Ux6nD9W-dQ9/s1600/DSC04554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvaAmIcRTrs3I7ZPPJD049Kv1a_eSSJrKFR2FNA-4nhEFr4DcGPGggghKj49x6kKSRZq20TMNHGMZq87xcsw9GiMFGq7zIB0rBa0Xg-kTU2y9vob9KMo6CDorO8p-3Y0sO_Ux6nD9W-dQ9/s1600/DSC04554.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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A closer look reveals how deceptively simple this appliqué is. Each bird is made up of two contrasting strips of bias with the twig made of brown bias. the eyes, beaks and legs are back stitched with embroidery thread. Anyone feeling inspired to make a copy?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisqJL7VH3F0BE0PQO-KYaUsNeFOBYISM7ETpZaNvAYH6UXeGcSDJEJaScqicjWnB-2UpElW_CKPtHjEBy-ZzunnwW-5LgbUa9PrwiSPyXtPpBsn8e6Sigc7TnAqnYGlv8lDVxRCdfo4Qxt/s1600/DSC04553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisqJL7VH3F0BE0PQO-KYaUsNeFOBYISM7ETpZaNvAYH6UXeGcSDJEJaScqicjWnB-2UpElW_CKPtHjEBy-ZzunnwW-5LgbUa9PrwiSPyXtPpBsn8e6Sigc7TnAqnYGlv8lDVxRCdfo4Qxt/s1600/DSC04553.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Also from the 1950s I leave you with some other singing birds - British ones this time though.</span></div>
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<br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-25721751948263029512014-12-02T21:47:00.000+00:002014-12-02T21:47:32.551+00:00An apron and lots of bias binding (again)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Alright I promise that, during my sabbatical from blogging, I did sew something other than aprons but for the time being that is what I a bringing us all up to date on. No more aprons for a while after today. At least for a little while.</div>
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<a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/its-curtains-for-sewing-room.html" target="_blank">I have already blogged about Sewing Machine Basics by Jane Bolsover</a>. The pattern for this full length apron comes from that. The pattern pieces for this and the other projects in the book are included on large sheets at the back of the book for you to trace off yourself.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBb2eereHYBnVbLneq7MJw7d5oFFkr87KwRa2rWGc4dlqiTt1vTjPqFaIsljUxU9k7Icxp2l6CJ52PFcyAVad81ktsD28AFwctBN2Tv50pgcgajYDtJfVbuOUC-Z6uwMDaAux3cfWU5jVO/s1600/DSC04222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBb2eereHYBnVbLneq7MJw7d5oFFkr87KwRa2rWGc4dlqiTt1vTjPqFaIsljUxU9k7Icxp2l6CJ52PFcyAVad81ktsD28AFwctBN2Tv50pgcgajYDtJfVbuOUC-Z6uwMDaAux3cfWU5jVO/s1600/DSC04222.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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The book is neatly arranged for the sewing novice. Each chapter takes the form of a 'Workshop' which teaches the reader a new technique. This is then followed by a project which makes use of the newly acquired skill. The 'Bound-edged apron' project tests -guess what? - the use of binding and patch pockets.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoc47S78w-ISltOK6vWbsFu9Zewhsn0359KtYYDUrsxRc_TEupG3mplPRDoXLeKqO5NP0pxV83NTBZy15R06b-vhoTzi77rWrp_RFDWHxRxyZC0Di5HFNGKLdg5I4cwtWGN0Tis0nXxeK1/s1600/DSC04206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoc47S78w-ISltOK6vWbsFu9Zewhsn0359KtYYDUrsxRc_TEupG3mplPRDoXLeKqO5NP0pxV83NTBZy15R06b-vhoTzi77rWrp_RFDWHxRxyZC0Di5HFNGKLdg5I4cwtWGN0Tis0nXxeK1/s1600/DSC04206.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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I decided that the usefully sized pocket should not pattern match with main apron piece. I did however try to centre the pattern piece on a motif so that over all the pocket ended up looking balanced.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihfz29_b4L-ChUBAwP1KJb6ADhAqFuFP5LHpAGDdKBrkHd5hCVCGsJXN93FoSSOrT5pVzQBMQ-e565v8lqzcT-gg1sbuWZDLEm4_m3Mous6L41HWMFn-SgeZHmVP7cdu89EtJMCQxsIiP1/s1600/DSC04212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihfz29_b4L-ChUBAwP1KJb6ADhAqFuFP5LHpAGDdKBrkHd5hCVCGsJXN93FoSSOrT5pVzQBMQ-e565v8lqzcT-gg1sbuWZDLEm4_m3Mous6L41HWMFn-SgeZHmVP7cdu89EtJMCQxsIiP1/s1600/DSC04212.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was very much in Singer 15K80 mode when I was making aprons during the late spring of 2014. Hardly surprising I got a bit smitten with that machine <a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/bonding-with-singer-15k80.html" target="_blank">once I got it sewing well</a>. Just look at those stitches! I am rather proud of the triangles strengthening the corners. Remember, after all, I was able to achieve those on a hand cranked machine which lacks a reverse feed - lots of needle down, presser foot up, action going on and I actually counted the stitches while I was sewing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGV1PtrqDuN5xLau8PGlF3h9UYzl0ktJlBOYGv0QEmH4AYgJ8hbQS6EPaVtk-xLr8ss254WHXoljN2hOrM6YaWNbR10Fis2I33yVPnIne-qZL_JTNVl1I7TjJUWNpHNL1B4JsDvaCwcwq1/s1600/DSC04210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGV1PtrqDuN5xLau8PGlF3h9UYzl0ktJlBOYGv0QEmH4AYgJ8hbQS6EPaVtk-xLr8ss254WHXoljN2hOrM6YaWNbR10Fis2I33yVPnIne-qZL_JTNVl1I7TjJUWNpHNL1B4JsDvaCwcwq1/s1600/DSC04210.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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I am slightly less proud of the above nonsense. The method of attaching the binding involved sewing through all layers at the same time - it looks a lot better from the right side. This being me I was able to include, even on an apron with only two very simple pattern pieces, a flat felled seam, albeit a very short one at the nape of the neck. There is no way I could "press open and finish seam allowance with a zig zag" given the machine I was using to sew this project - what's a boy to do?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiudjBivpEmhzHC2KdcC4l3qRcvY3PhiCLI5IsDRcg9ZrgeC7obHypnzd6DVgEnZ2xBRAUB_Yv3J5X6U2M7W2RvkMLhocpZhKI-p1JhBySx43RP1lpiPJpAb8C6fpuMvtuZfQWVBdFY4m28/s1600/DSC04208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiudjBivpEmhzHC2KdcC4l3qRcvY3PhiCLI5IsDRcg9ZrgeC7obHypnzd6DVgEnZ2xBRAUB_Yv3J5X6U2M7W2RvkMLhocpZhKI-p1JhBySx43RP1lpiPJpAb8C6fpuMvtuZfQWVBdFY4m28/s1600/DSC04208.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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I cut out the ties using a ruler and rotary cutter on the long grain of the fabric. They are stitched along their long edge, turned through and then the open ends turned in and topstitched to the apron edges with a square and cross thingy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI-8IrEMxI1wS1nrQL1snC__jbNz2RYYazZTVqT8vnzkhQKpoJ8nqHWjBt3jDDgt-3THwS_VgwKDr57BNXwqZc6hyO-jXH0CP11RBoxQWnbK92B3Lj21J4tnx3UDM0P-7iWhuS3dOpIlq1/s1600/DSC04209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI-8IrEMxI1wS1nrQL1snC__jbNz2RYYazZTVqT8vnzkhQKpoJ8nqHWjBt3jDDgt-3THwS_VgwKDr57BNXwqZc6hyO-jXH0CP11RBoxQWnbK92B3Lj21J4tnx3UDM0P-7iWhuS3dOpIlq1/s1600/DSC04209.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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All the raw edges are encased with home made bias binding. Lots of measuring and fun! Recognise the <a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/another-apron-with-gathered-ruffle.html" target="_blank">green fabric from the second apron with a ruffle</a>? I told you my stitching looked more even from the right side didn't I?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZbxENv3EO-Hp0hgmqHhLbs9S1woZMtqf0l4gQo9y44YVsdiz4YlQsAFxGJ8V_kOHh5mp2Ro4UALSxPMLJzw7OVQO0uMSr9MJlk3PkDIWg2nud66cVgSxofWswQaluAhFJYyYN1isRexYE/s1600/DSC04204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZbxENv3EO-Hp0hgmqHhLbs9S1woZMtqf0l4gQo9y44YVsdiz4YlQsAFxGJ8V_kOHh5mp2Ro4UALSxPMLJzw7OVQO0uMSr9MJlk3PkDIWg2nud66cVgSxofWswQaluAhFJYyYN1isRexYE/s1600/DSC04204.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is the finished apron all ready to be sent off it's new owner - ignore all those work shirts that needed ironing!<br />
<br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-50037080775676163322014-11-30T22:13:00.000+00:002014-12-01T09:01:25.074+00:00Another apron with a gathered ruffle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This ruffled apron is separated from the first by about eighteen months of time. The first was such a hit with the ladies of the family that a second was needed to prevent a charge of favouritism on my part. I was able to take more detailed pictures of the second apron before I gave it away to my Mam.</div>
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This apron is made of printed cotton poplin and lined with some plain white poly-cotton so that the raw edge of the ruffle is fully enclosed and the apron has a nice amount of heft, or body, or whatever you want to call it.</div>
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The curved patch pocket is edge-stitched in place. The side seams are angled slightly toward the top so that the pocket forms an open bag.<br />
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This being apron mkII I knew that I wanted to make sure to match the bobbin thread to the white lining fabric rather than to the green pocket. Sewing with two different colours of thread is a dead giveaway for uneven tensions so full marks to the Singer 15K80 I sewed this with!</div>
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The ruffle is gathered at a ratio of 2:1. When I first used this pattern I sewed the running stitch for the gathering by hand. This time I was bold, I was brave, I was fearless and used a vintage Singer ruffler attachment. I had to mess about with scraps a bit to get the fullness of the gathers as I wanted them. I wasn't quite brave enough to use the ruffler to gather and sew the ruffle onto the apron in one operation as the old manuals suggest is possible - one step at a time! I probably didn't save much time but using the ruffler was a lot of fun and the results are a pleasing firm even gather.</div>
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The instructions on finishing the ties are pretty nifty too. The square ends are folded in on themselves at 45 degrees to produce neat points that are pressed and edge-stitched in place.</div>
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And one last close up of the hemmed edge of the ruffle in case any one is any doubt over how tasty the stitches produced by a 56 year old machine really are!<br />
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<br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-70836762850878136102014-11-30T13:59:00.000+00:002014-11-30T16:10:23.106+00:00An apron with a gathered ruffleDear readers and follows I am sorry not to have written sooner. I really don't know where the time has gone. More responsibility at work plus regular weekend working, a new home with, for the first time, a garden? Big changes seem to have left little time for blogging <i>and</i> sewing during 2014. The choice: sew or blog so I sewed and left the blog in free fall. Similar to not getting in touch with a friend or relative the longer you leave it the harder it gets. Time for an update? Past time!<br />
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The pattern for this apron came from the Liberty Book of Home Sewing. My version, pictured below, was one of the first things I made on the Singer 401G - months before I wrote my first blog entry. It's modelled beautifully by my gorgeous and glamorous sister. The apron was a birthday present for her.<br />
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I really enjoyed putting this project together. It was one of the first things I shopped for specific fabric for. It's made of Liberty Tana Lawn in the Carline and Glenjade patterns. It really is lovely stuff to work with as I am sure many of you will know. The pattern requires only two pieces which I drew on squared paper following the instructions from the book. The waistband, ties and frill are all straight cut across the width of the fabric using a rotary cutter.<br />
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The apron was fun to make and allowed me to develop a couple of new to me, at the time, skills<br />
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<li>Patch pockets</li>
<li>Gathering</li>
<li>Bagging a lining</li>
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I followed the book instructions for gathering the ruffle which involved hand sewing a running stitch the length of it. This must have added quite a bit of time to the making. I didn't know at the time that I could just have easily sewn a long machine stitch with a loose top tension in much less time and achieved the same effect. Thank goodness I have read some more books since then. The next step was marking both the apron and the ruffle with pins at different spacings and gathering the latter down to the same spacing as the former. The result was pricking even gathers!</div>
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The one other thing I would have done differently in hind sight was to make sure I matched the bobbin thread to the apron lining when I attached the patch pocket. I never thought - experience (or lack there of) once again.</div>
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Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-6177912755126469762014-04-06T07:12:00.001+01:002014-04-06T17:58:20.081+01:00It's curtains… for the sewing room<span style="font-family: inherit;">I moved house twice in 2013. I have been lucky in that both of the dwellings allow for a designated sewing room. Some of you will remember the first one from the <a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/all-of-things-that-stopped-me-blogging.html" target="_blank">blog entry last Summer</a>. The second has seen more service as a spare bedroom than for sewing. I think this is because it is equipped with a futon rather than a decent cutting table. It does however have a fantastic 1930s sideboard in which to store fabric, haberdashery and patterns <i>and</i> the room has enough floorspace for the Singer 201K in its cabinet.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The previous owners left behind a black-out roller blind and an empty curtain track so I thought I would have a go at curtains.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I was inspired, in part by one of my Christmas presents [am I really blogging about Christmas presents in April?] <i>Sewing Machine Basics</i> by Jane Bolsover...</span><br />
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… which contains instructions on how to make sheer curtains…</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8L3TeZ-8QZbne4uHP2wmQLZxxbD-7qPuezVOx3MxirZdOZEZXTNx6OqNUd6C3YPNxErlN315f96RdXizpdthPf8H3eXjRrvXSFwvZjWUPzGME_Dlisj6BXYofg7OdAabawqDJgUdUwbO/s1600/DSC04224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8L3TeZ-8QZbne4uHP2wmQLZxxbD-7qPuezVOx3MxirZdOZEZXTNx6OqNUd6C3YPNxErlN315f96RdXizpdthPf8H3eXjRrvXSFwvZjWUPzGME_Dlisj6BXYofg7OdAabawqDJgUdUwbO/s1600/DSC04224.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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...and partly by a pair of poly chiffon curtains that came from one of The Much Belov<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">éd's previous residences. The curtains would not typically be my first choice of fabric but they were unlikely to be used again elsewhere, sheer and would therefore work well with the existing blind, free and available and therefore of no </span>consequence should I happen to ruin them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFRqrYsHBONplVXj8wC9AQRn4hbWtB0azKrL-gt6X9GC7H2cMnDuOMhILaRI22wITctVUUMWdMaPdTNVIB6bMrMZ7CnGyCCBiKDJFbH-Jr3Y_Ee2uRLAaA1-4mWO6blTZ0zkwURhPsqPtD/s1600/DSC04169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFRqrYsHBONplVXj8wC9AQRn4hbWtB0azKrL-gt6X9GC7H2cMnDuOMhILaRI22wITctVUUMWdMaPdTNVIB6bMrMZ7CnGyCCBiKDJFbH-Jr3Y_Ee2uRLAaA1-4mWO6blTZ0zkwURhPsqPtD/s1600/DSC04169.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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I laid a curtain out on the floor which was the only place big enough to do so. The top of the curtain was finished with a tab top and the bottom partially finished with an overlocker. I suppose the idea was to hem them yourself to the required length. I rather suspect that this pair of curtains may have been supplied with their own packed of fusible webbing for just that purpose.<br />
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The tab top wasn't going to be much use to me because the type of curtain track I had inherited so the first thing to do was to get rid of it. I set about it with my sharp shears. The nasty plasticky label also disappeared along with the top hem. Imagine putting a great heavy label like that on an item made of transparent fabric!<br />
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This operation left me with a long piece of cloth, hemmed on two sides, overlocked across the bottom width, with raw across the top. Each curtain was more or less the width of my window and, from what I had read, using both would give me a nice fullness when gathered over the window.<br />
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The next step was to turn my attention to that overlocked bottom edge. I decided to look upon that partial finishing as a gift on this slippery sliding shifting fabric and use it to help me produce my hem.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I began by turning up 1½ inches. I turn the folded edge up again so that the line of overlocking was enclosed by my first fold. This gave the bottom hem a </span></span>triple<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> thickness and a nice bit of </span></span>heft which should help with the hang of the finished curtains. <span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> I felt the need to use a great many pins to hold this turning in place. The fabric handled </span></span>something<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> like a cross between a crisp packet and a bin liner.</span></span><br />
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The instructions in the book are to pin and then hand baste (tack) every bit of sewing you do. I am sure that this approach produces fantastically neat results… … <i>eventually. </i>A big apology to the purists but I just couldn't face that kind of investment of time in a piece of second hand polyester. I managed to produce a decent hem using plenty of pins and the 1936 Singer 99K hand crank. The machine handled a fabric which would not be invented until five years after it was built pretty well I thought. I was sure to use a light tension to avoid puckering though. I used a cool iron to press the hem because I was terrified the fabric might melt. It just about holds a crease but not for very long. More on how things went at the other end of the curtain next time!Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-66227655656711686422014-01-30T08:03:00.000+00:002014-01-30T08:03:45.941+00:00Bonding with Singer 15K80<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One day early last autumn I got out the Singer 15K80 to do a quick job sewing some furnishing weight chintz. The cotton thread I used was pretty old, it came from a wooden spool that arrived with the machine, and thicker than the usual polyester I buy. I really struggled to get the '15' to produce anything like the kind of stitched vintage Singers usually make. The stitches were loose at the beginning of the seams then would improve - a bit. The best I could do was to back the top tension right off to get the top and bottom threads balanced but then the overall impression that the stitches gave was somehow sloppy. It was hard to distinguish neat individual stitches making up the line. Hard to explain and I didn't take any pictures at the time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The poor quality of these stitches in spite of many rethreadings and much adjustment of the top tension were rapidly making me fall out of love with this machine. I have often thought of the 15 as a bit of an odd ball in the Singer stable with its odd man out bobbin and bobbin case. Three of my machines take class 66 bobbins so why did I even need the hassle of yet another type of bobbin? For a few minutes I even considered throwing in my lot with the 15k80 and selling it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Instead I did some thinking and research and came to the conclusion that my problems were, more than likely, related to bottom tension.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It took me quite some time before I could find some really useful practical advice on how to set up from scratch a class 15 bobbin case. One method I watched on You Tube relied on buying a new bobbin case set up at the factory and then pulling yards and yards of thread through the tension until you develop a 'feel' for what should be the right tension - er there must be <a href="http://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/tension/" target="_blank">a more scientific way than that…!</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And of course there is. A big thank you to Charles Day who submitted these instructions to <a href="http://singersewinginfo.co.uk/">singersewinginfo.co.uk</a> helping people like me (and you?) to improve the performance of their vintage Singers.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Step 1: weigh out just under one and a half ounces of sugar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Step 2: put the sugar inside a tiny ziplock back. The one I used came with spare buttons for one of The Much Beloved's shirts and was just the right size.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ4gw9BmU6lAw9OArXbKSETfru1vk74uasp66eJoGDbhHmwfuN6zD1PbFAXk7NfLd2oAKhQgkkzvArqxyK896UMPgPdpkx1VFdjhdMyOyF_6CdE-KHZxJLElV-IQG8TNvMkREjWBwXwA8O/s1600/DSC04192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ4gw9BmU6lAw9OArXbKSETfru1vk74uasp66eJoGDbhHmwfuN6zD1PbFAXk7NfLd2oAKhQgkkzvArqxyK896UMPgPdpkx1VFdjhdMyOyF_6CdE-KHZxJLElV-IQG8TNvMkREjWBwXwA8O/s1600/DSC04192.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Step 3: Tie the bobbin thread to the bag of sugar. My bag happened to have a small hole punched in it for just that job.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifQ_HMmGr5R9oMPIWBym_96Dg6x_MWVW2juzZ0NqhRVZWFXJrWQIYGAUNezdtLPN6Hb-8ALQVyErfqD9T2OSaCxp-jjcPZINv1RntZtMSWfH7RfvwEvY15V9K6Ra1x4uAPW6CD_eLFH9Hw/s1600/DSC04193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifQ_HMmGr5R9oMPIWBym_96Dg6x_MWVW2juzZ0NqhRVZWFXJrWQIYGAUNezdtLPN6Hb-8ALQVyErfqD9T2OSaCxp-jjcPZINv1RntZtMSWfH7RfvwEvY15V9K6Ra1x4uAPW6CD_eLFH9Hw/s1600/DSC04193.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Step 4: Load the bobbin into the bobbin case. The first time I did this I discovered that the tension on this bobbin case was so light that the bag of sugar quickly dropped to the floor sending the bobbin spinning in its case. Ah-Ha! So there's the cause of my sloppy stitches and inconsistent tension.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_gqDgtll13QWekbWV0V1BuVOxfp3JPXsz5nZfcdsPV9-KhyphenhyphenDT-13Z2jYRZvxa2kJu6OnPe0Z6w00H8TUNUzcHyQ8K2xMMQUjBVonbKy0VO9hvmTho06Srw-gylvj4f0w6OLNTFfBzOmRT/s1600/DSC04197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_gqDgtll13QWekbWV0V1BuVOxfp3JPXsz5nZfcdsPV9-KhyphenhyphenDT-13Z2jYRZvxa2kJu6OnPe0Z6w00H8TUNUzcHyQ8K2xMMQUjBVonbKy0VO9hvmTho06Srw-gylvj4f0w6OLNTFfBzOmRT/s1600/DSC04197.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Step 5: Using the small screwdriver; little by little I tweaked up the tension until it was sufficient to just hold the bag swinging in mid air. A sharp upward motion should allow one to two inches of thread to be pulled off the bobbin before it comes to rest in mid air again.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYYd5vUzP5gg6A13rKbefv8lqJqibkC_YJG5meCUUopwP1UKvcRdlJaZaNdyYXTHXxSv1mlB1thpo9Y9dlb1VSTjtF-f0tyvMORs0GN0hL1Vk87dj4z1aoZxuf2Qdj6ghasRNNCenRmqNP/s1600/DSC04199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYYd5vUzP5gg6A13rKbefv8lqJqibkC_YJG5meCUUopwP1UKvcRdlJaZaNdyYXTHXxSv1mlB1thpo9Y9dlb1VSTjtF-f0tyvMORs0GN0hL1Vk87dj4z1aoZxuf2Qdj6ghasRNNCenRmqNP/s1600/DSC04199.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Step 6: Load the bobbin and case into the machine; check the thread path of the top thread; adjust top tension to balance the top and bottom threads; admire the beautiful even straight stitches produced by class 15 Singers. I think I may have just found a new favourite.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXY401MtgX-gnksbElyACzhqEvFF6QV3qIbKhxKFBfV4OJ4DU_FoaKoPZg_QKmZwfJ1q898-SIKm-kR6_4Pl022PVVgR_BZTuzLN-Ia9LmZWf-1xV5Tagksjy56CNDeyDBrd15P7G-xVV/s1600/DSC04203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXY401MtgX-gnksbElyACzhqEvFF6QV3qIbKhxKFBfV4OJ4DU_FoaKoPZg_QKmZwfJ1q898-SIKm-kR6_4Pl022PVVgR_BZTuzLN-Ia9LmZWf-1xV5Tagksjy56CNDeyDBrd15P7G-xVV/s1600/DSC04203.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-34463101881431551362014-01-27T21:27:00.000+00:002014-01-27T22:51:51.941+00:00A nightshirt for me: McCall 8372After successfully sewing the <a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/a-onesie-for-much-beloved-kwik-sew-k3713.html" target="_blank">onesie for The Much Beloved</a> I thought I deserved some night attire of my own. I couldn't see myself in a one piece. Too reminiscent of overalls - there would be real danger of me attempting an oil change in one of those. I took a fancy to something more old school (or should that be skool?).<br />
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McCall 8372 is excellent value as a pattern. Just look at the many garments one can make with it. I wonder if it was one of the last non-multi-sized patterns. I ordered the large based on my 42 inch chest measurement.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5CMhNV6_iSOSg1sudnGCjghsxyWKOh_8fzmUE6C-cocasS4RoFut7K8SPNcF4o-omqYmfUvDdnvRBR5coqmJ92C6Bl4vo-gyy9PZW8uYlTrvhOgjT_ohdMCJxFygaH1mNmj8wS6GX5xf-/s1600/DSC04177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5CMhNV6_iSOSg1sudnGCjghsxyWKOh_8fzmUE6C-cocasS4RoFut7K8SPNcF4o-omqYmfUvDdnvRBR5coqmJ92C6Bl4vo-gyy9PZW8uYlTrvhOgjT_ohdMCJxFygaH1mNmj8wS6GX5xf-/s1600/DSC04177.JPG" height="640" width="504" /></a></div>
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Those of you who have read the blog will know that I am keen on free or very cheap fabric especially when practicing on a new pattern. Regulars will also know that I am quite partial to repurposing duvet covers.<br />
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I have (had) this wonderful 100% cotton Conran duvet cover bought at Heel's ages ago. It did years of service on my bed but it must be at least four since I've used it and it now doesn't go with anything. It's a gorgeous cotton twill ticking and much washing has improved its beautiful soft handle. I thought it would make a great nightshirt.<br />
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The pattern has clear instructions. Diagrams backed up with directions which take into account whether you are using a straight stitch or zig-zag machine. There is sufficient seam allowance for the shoulder, armscye, and side seams to be flat felled. The neck facings are turned under and top stitched to the wrong side for a neat finish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0uyP02BoySD-pHTlz641NsdSx55wjBafIJiQ6xaAwsL9-aCZivs-UHBv9sSWiBEuJPtr4k1E2qce9YEuhpF7Cp1Wl_Ix-cRnTnDSbwzIR0BO5Z8_hFBdW1m_vfxfPoip9kPZD3UO0_ir/s1600/DSC04185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0uyP02BoySD-pHTlz641NsdSx55wjBafIJiQ6xaAwsL9-aCZivs-UHBv9sSWiBEuJPtr4k1E2qce9YEuhpF7Cp1Wl_Ix-cRnTnDSbwzIR0BO5Z8_hFBdW1m_vfxfPoip9kPZD3UO0_ir/s1600/DSC04185.JPG" height="640" width="526" /></a></div>
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The shirt features a rounded patch pocket on the left front. I made a bit of an effort to get the stripes to match up. I missed having reverse feed when I edge stitched the pockets.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisH0QHAmPUe4334XB7NSgjuxxZyI6gJCEY4c98ws5c-I6F2sDq2WleRF_cuhP_FpL6ECXBgXhYgloo1dx3bCOYHIvOVIyc6DJHVEe5yYMfwhp01rFBHIl3Gg81L1iIq5SZdPNNLJ6YWgjL/s1600/DSC04178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisH0QHAmPUe4334XB7NSgjuxxZyI6gJCEY4c98ws5c-I6F2sDq2WleRF_cuhP_FpL6ECXBgXhYgloo1dx3bCOYHIvOVIyc6DJHVEe5yYMfwhp01rFBHIl3Gg81L1iIq5SZdPNNLJ6YWgjL/s1600/DSC04178.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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The applied cuff bands are cut on the long grain which I think makes these stripes really pop in a good way. They are finished off with a nice bit of edge and top stitching courtesy of the 28K.<br />
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The one point where the pattern is slightly vague is when it calls for a five eighths hem giving no further instructions. I took this to mean - turn under a quarter inch, press, turn over a further three eighths so that the raw edge is enclosed within the second fold, press again, pin and edge stitch in place. I hope I got it right?<br />
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The curved hem creates a shallow split where it meets the side seam. I had to do a certain amount of fudging where the flat fell and the narrow hem meet. It looks a lot better from the RS and is holding up to washing so far…<br />
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I made the buttonholes and sewed on the buttons using the Singer 401G and Singer slant buttonholer. Results are consistent. The 28K showed off a bit more with the topstitching on the front placket.<br />
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The buttons themselves are vintage brace buttons from Ede and Ravenscroft, robe makers to the Queen. High end or what? They are rather bigger than the half inch shirt buttons recommended by the pattern but I think they are more in scale with the relaxed characteristics of the night shirt and the colour is perfect.<br />
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The finished garment is roomy but then I suppose it should be. The fabric feels great - soft, comfy and cosy. I made this nightshirt for a bit a giggle but have ended up wearing it quite a lot. I used nearly half of a double sized duvet cover, thread left over from another project and three of six buttons from some worn out suit trousers. So in theory my night shirt cost me only my time and I still have enough of everything left to make another.<br />
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"Hey - that's really nice. I can't tell that it didn't come from a store," said The Much Beloved. Would that be the ultimate compliment by any chance?<br />
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<br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-15295768787272405232014-01-20T00:51:00.000+00:002014-01-20T00:51:52.545+00:00A onesie for The Much Belovéd: Kwik Sew K3713<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It seems like onesies are ubiquitous at the moment even here at Oil and Thread where we seldom follow fashion. According to the stats the likelihood is that by now you either own a Onesie or know someone who does. I am guessing that fewer people have actually sewn a onesie. Unless they happen to have a copy of Kwik Sew K3713 lying around.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHIKZXNcj1dgopXQjxtDRVDRPWV4M_Ymnbl659ek51_3giXyIW_aBoSxpBtng6A9IzqhxeEsa2p7E1XkAg18wGgs9zBgI_GfF4HOqkyo1yIUDgiJdPwvcCekRTAqlHM2ALRSuh0LKeeiZ0/s1600/DSC04117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHIKZXNcj1dgopXQjxtDRVDRPWV4M_Ymnbl659ek51_3giXyIW_aBoSxpBtng6A9IzqhxeEsa2p7E1XkAg18wGgs9zBgI_GfF4HOqkyo1yIUDgiJdPwvcCekRTAqlHM2ALRSuh0LKeeiZ0/s1600/DSC04117.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I thought this pattern might appeal to The Much Belov<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">éd. He seemed genuinely pleased when he first saw it and quite excited when I finally got down to work on it. He tends to run around barefoot quite a </span>bit so we agreed on version B the footless sleep suit.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I was inspired by the colour scheme on the pattern envelope and the very reasonable price of red cotton flannel. An error on my part concerning the fabric width led me to buying twice as much winceyette as required. During the weekend I spent shrinking, drying and ironing this fabric it felt like we were swathed in acres of red brushed cotton.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red rag to a bull?</td></tr>
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The pattern really isn't complicated and the instructions are first rate. The biggest challenge is the size of the pieces. Laying out and cutting took up a lot of space. It's lucky the dinning table has that extra leaf! Once the fabric was cut its size made it more than a bit of a handful.<br />
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The pattern includes a quarter inch seam allowances which are finished by zigzagging together - must be a job for the trusty 401G. I heeded all my old sewing machine instruction books' warnings about shortening the stitch length and lightening the tension when sewing flannel. I think this is supposed to allow the seams to 'give' a little during wear. Kwik Sew's quarter inch seam allowances mean no trimming - refreshing!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VSLgyA4TRfZZaonl_tLRigb6mOkUAhHmFjAcal4h_JmKHRiTRtbYTOOLMpc9kHtjE_yYzFD370kUZggUTEM2pmFqLsUTXOlizHJycXbn6iOUoLyNG9gJcDt3LxfvqZwOnBeSelhj8EFP/s1600/DSC04168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3VSLgyA4TRfZZaonl_tLRigb6mOkUAhHmFjAcal4h_JmKHRiTRtbYTOOLMpc9kHtjE_yYzFD370kUZggUTEM2pmFqLsUTXOlizHJycXbn6iOUoLyNG9gJcDt3LxfvqZwOnBeSelhj8EFP/s1600/DSC04168.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This shade of red has proven to be virtually impossible to photograph!</td></tr>
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The neckband and cuffs are sewn into the main body and finished in the same way.<br />
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This was my first go at sewing stretchy knits. I did invest in some Organ needles designed especially for stretch fabric and I played it safe by sewing with my 'modern' machine. I quite enjoyed the experience and the results are encouraging.<br />
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The pattern includes directions for either buttons or snap fastenings. TMB put in a special request for snap fastenings so that meant buying some new kit. I may post a full tutorial on fitting snaps at a later date. They went on without any trouble at all and I think they work well with this pattern.<br />
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The pattern is a very generously sized. I cut the medium based on the measurements on the pattern envelope but in my opinion the finished garment is a shade too big for TBM. It's actually a better fit on me and I am nearer a large these days. If I made another (remember I ended up with enough fabric for two) I would either make the small for TMB or reduce the length of the body by 1-2 inches. TMB was however delighted with his roomy new onesie. The proof has been in the wearing with the onesie making regular appearances at the weekend breakfast table!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1uWI2pPCWxdcaZDy7tdpWjVHaMwZA6TqXEi4lbTX6RvGLTCC5ugXzrJ3GGCqxSweDD8PKVrsD4yHJq16GnRXPK42EKLe3pMi7sgT9ROznbotw-zInj6TRPvN0B1ab5k2wWTQJCeoPt4VJ/s1600/DSC04161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1uWI2pPCWxdcaZDy7tdpWjVHaMwZA6TqXEi4lbTX6RvGLTCC5ugXzrJ3GGCqxSweDD8PKVrsD4yHJq16GnRXPK42EKLe3pMi7sgT9ROznbotw-zInj6TRPvN0B1ab5k2wWTQJCeoPt4VJ/s1600/DSC04161.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The owner was not available for modelling today</td></tr>
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<br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-28247215919584932902014-01-18T13:07:00.000+00:002014-01-18T13:07:45.223+00:00New check spring for Singer 28KThis handsome little machine is my Singer 28K. It was my first and it was this machine that got me started on sewing. On it I sewed my first ever garment, pieced my first quilt top and then went on to quilt and bind that quilt.<i> </i>It's not <i>very </i>easy for a beginner to quilt a single bed sized quilt on a three-quarter sized machine fitted with a fixed straight-stitch foot but the results are satisfying.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_eEiJlfYJitudzYw7lDRkR2hgxHU4mRXKeKqhgVFbmUOTkW2Yl4UEjVul6pmQOHYkl0mRb69YIofxg3YL396FNxAGFaLC1rGCMNE5FD-2TP0Pgn5iumrmm-qpZXMLJonnHekEtvygRl_P/s1600/DSC04145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Singer 28 Sewing Machine" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_eEiJlfYJitudzYw7lDRkR2hgxHU4mRXKeKqhgVFbmUOTkW2Yl4UEjVul6pmQOHYkl0mRb69YIofxg3YL396FNxAGFaLC1rGCMNE5FD-2TP0Pgn5iumrmm-qpZXMLJonnHekEtvygRl_P/s1600/DSC04145.JPG" height="480" title="Singer 28K Sewing Machine" width="640" /></a></div>
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The machine had been given to a colleague of mine who is a wiz with fancy dress. She didn't feel it was really the machine for her so the 28 had been stored under her desk at the office for some months.<br />
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When it arrived there really wasn't much wrong with it. It looked like it hadn't been used for a long time and although slightly dulled and with a few blemishes there were no signs of significant rust. It came with the essentials; a fixed straight-stitch foot, a shuttle, one bobbin and a blunt needle. The only real problem was that the check spring, which on Singer 27/127 and 28/128, is comparatively long, unguarded and therefore vulnerable to damage, had been snapped.<br />
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The check spring is the fine wire spring which will usually be found somewhere in the region of a sewing machine's tension disks. It's job is to remove slack in the thread as the take up arm rises to the top of its stroke after the stitch has been formed. If the tension on the check spring is too little or the spring is missing the machine will be unable to form good stitches.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7yEuwk5s9YHSPRvpr8svQ7FINbDSQVPHY6l46lqepwZ1CMmhHtakXmMWJie9UPbMiAmcniq32dnVGi0poK8eDRDVELe7NBdgucfgKJmlPtDTMVZPFO4FUAWFzACvjKk5Igk9zikQdw17/s1600/DSC04146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK7yEuwk5s9YHSPRvpr8svQ7FINbDSQVPHY6l46lqepwZ1CMmhHtakXmMWJie9UPbMiAmcniq32dnVGi0poK8eDRDVELe7NBdgucfgKJmlPtDTMVZPFO4FUAWFzACvjKk5Igk9zikQdw17/s1600/DSC04146.jpg" height="640" title="Singer 28K tension assembly, needle and take up arm" width="480" /></a></div>
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This machine was actually able to form a pretty good stitch even without a properly functioning check spring. However I knew it would do better if it was in tip-top condition so I bought a new one. If you are looking for one it is worth knowing that a spring from a 27 will fit a 28 and vice versa.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVmFD0CVYEECHJmggOEguOa81zBU0Ln2lKh-VMb9NkHUERSml7hacMo00910_aoEw6ujQvQE4T1aLmgjV7Wd6zmqQeUvXuLZKqd9YpFOE7yEmHcS9couCZ1oXottMY2hKrBSv87hU3QI2/s1600/DSC04149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Singer 27 check spring" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIVmFD0CVYEECHJmggOEguOa81zBU0Ln2lKh-VMb9NkHUERSml7hacMo00910_aoEw6ujQvQE4T1aLmgjV7Wd6zmqQeUvXuLZKqd9YpFOE7yEmHcS9couCZ1oXottMY2hKrBSv87hU3QI2/s1600/DSC04149.JPG" height="480" title="Singer 28 check spring" width="640" /></a></div>
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The new check spring has a loop at one end for the thread, a long straight section, a row of even coils and one small coil at the end. The whole thing slips neatly over the tension assembly stud.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6sWvmZWri9fZpE6iFeiqMur5kA1z9Ub_8aVlkr0xdY3Y-huPxqkVKsDJe_TOdUiyyt3nokPPuxJYKAUks-icOZ3OzArpUdMhsPVLUC21l5Z_3Dpu8Jki6FGWop8zsATaqRxuVFQs0D1_z/s1600/DSC04152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6sWvmZWri9fZpE6iFeiqMur5kA1z9Ub_8aVlkr0xdY3Y-huPxqkVKsDJe_TOdUiyyt3nokPPuxJYKAUks-icOZ3OzArpUdMhsPVLUC21l5Z_3Dpu8Jki6FGWop8zsATaqRxuVFQs0D1_z/s1600/DSC04152.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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The stud is threaded at both ends. The narrow thread screws directly into the machine head and the split end allows the pressure on tension discs to be varied.<br />
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This photo shows the check spring in position over the tension stud. The tail of the spring will be sandwiched between the step in the stud and the machine head casting. This holds the spring in place and under tension.<br />
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The check spring's travel is limited top and bottom by the two notches on the machine head casting but the arm of the spring should sit on the lug mid way between these two. The position can fine tuned by loosening the screw at the bottom of the tension assembly and sliding the slotted back plate to the left or right.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2h2W3HsP1vSDef28sQKNMoE61lsYqch-_fhkiqHFok6K4DSo9IAQDUE4GxSRrD4VOyDncBqZKwsbobaKXkVBxRjYh1lNZ2uct7zpt41unu8NG04bg1NlSRFOcaV1K0UbnblPbqRhJIkR9/s1600/DSC04147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2h2W3HsP1vSDef28sQKNMoE61lsYqch-_fhkiqHFok6K4DSo9IAQDUE4GxSRrD4VOyDncBqZKwsbobaKXkVBxRjYh1lNZ2uct7zpt41unu8NG04bg1NlSRFOcaV1K0UbnblPbqRhJIkR9/s1600/DSC04147.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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Here is a detail of the tension unit after reassembly. The knurled nut adjusts the upper tension and shouldn't need to be much tighter than in the picture if the bottom tension is set up correctly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw4CJjdDkSN_w2knFWb0khdU_dMEW83dkO-U112Fw9nI6A0PEPXcEyWIBu_m1Py-EmaW1Nug9Vgtes5wXcIB48ufxqwnP2kp0C1E-z2S2QHXhVF23xwEvFYE5xDelLYDQIKXLjKUhQiPb5/s1600/DSC04154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw4CJjdDkSN_w2knFWb0khdU_dMEW83dkO-U112Fw9nI6A0PEPXcEyWIBu_m1Py-EmaW1Nug9Vgtes5wXcIB48ufxqwnP2kp0C1E-z2S2QHXhVF23xwEvFYE5xDelLYDQIKXLjKUhQiPb5/s1600/DSC04154.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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With a new check spring the Singer 28k is now producing beautiful, even, balanced stitches. Not bad work for a 115 year old!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPczcMPrFc6HrrVKKqxLXfl1Pcf7HWgLGVad3TrSWfRBHLdh2BkhcxiW7nAHUX6kqOQjlvv_eYkJpaBspL0yz2kEdmhipu9MnfNK4vEyDe2V0DS1uASyXmkr5-lZy2ogxBc4oLZkOATO3m/s1600/DSC04156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPczcMPrFc6HrrVKKqxLXfl1Pcf7HWgLGVad3TrSWfRBHLdh2BkhcxiW7nAHUX6kqOQjlvv_eYkJpaBspL0yz2kEdmhipu9MnfNK4vEyDe2V0DS1uASyXmkr5-lZy2ogxBc4oLZkOATO3m/s1600/DSC04156.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a>Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-33262269190906275572013-10-25T22:51:00.000+01:002013-10-25T22:51:00.463+01:00Sewing on buttons with the Singer 401G<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9f-AogEqmQtw2OQlRtS-RwRqofIjg8XSAiUufQR9GIbLdzx6OZY90KcZRn6vG1vRD3sXCnqcg1rSUpn2lFqvo8wVFWmdeWdSfkLfnm-pt4VFcAa0tAhbPceEQ41pDFa3C17ShGMp2533f/s1600/DSC03282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9f-AogEqmQtw2OQlRtS-RwRqofIjg8XSAiUufQR9GIbLdzx6OZY90KcZRn6vG1vRD3sXCnqcg1rSUpn2lFqvo8wVFWmdeWdSfkLfnm-pt4VFcAa0tAhbPceEQ41pDFa3C17ShGMp2533f/s200/DSC03282.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I had to do a little repair so I used the opportunity to get some photographs.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;">This procedure is so much fun and so quick it is over all too soon. As usual preparation is key. First fit an open, short-toed, button sewing foot to the presser bar.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNjbm4zfrSxKt54H23u3HxR0ECOLLzljUgD3OO_Ky4bgftx53HdNLhUPKgFPs2i-fnrbqc92wonXQ3eFrpeqjKyJ_VkiynSWi8dLIMwTMpAVEIj8WBb3b6HNsvuL5KW5GVBwWvzZGgOHpQ/s1600/DSC04106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><img alt="Singer slant shank button sewing foot" border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNjbm4zfrSxKt54H23u3HxR0ECOLLzljUgD3OO_Ky4bgftx53HdNLhUPKgFPs2i-fnrbqc92wonXQ3eFrpeqjKyJ_VkiynSWi8dLIMwTMpAVEIj8WBb3b6HNsvuL5KW5GVBwWvzZGgOHpQ/s640/DSC04106.jpg" title="Singer 401G button sewing foot" width="480" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Next raise the throat plate (which is, on the 401, the equivalent of dropping the feed dogs - trust Singer to be different!)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjteNPm33bL1YHOa8cFGUV0SVwG-MN9Aj4ehmFBtVTCpz8uu3If2QPI481mFMupX6zlsBx2Oe678jdzjUsVAUn9StXAyNl0v0lrXivj9SquXdJyZr9wZ-galHuiWp38OKegp_Y3-eCZJdgQ/s1600/DSC04112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><img alt="Raised throat plate" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjteNPm33bL1YHOa8cFGUV0SVwG-MN9Aj4ehmFBtVTCpz8uu3If2QPI481mFMupX6zlsBx2Oe678jdzjUsVAUn9StXAyNl0v0lrXivj9SquXdJyZr9wZ-galHuiWp38OKegp_Y3-eCZJdgQ/s640/DSC04112.JPG" title="Singer 401G throat plate" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">This is done by setting the <i>throat plate positioning lever </i>to the darn/embroider/button sewing symbol.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2eml4xQyzVdoFj_tUn3UZluc3wLT32OPjl0zoflcxeXx1zYdel9bRdn766JTdKOMrW2T1wF7KPQTe_SKkXK-pw2XZj4T-FakJ77NygmFnWPEU66DWXbkrIXKG_y5CIelhSiJL2TyM0FvG/s1600/DSC04110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2eml4xQyzVdoFj_tUn3UZluc3wLT32OPjl0zoflcxeXx1zYdel9bRdn766JTdKOMrW2T1wF7KPQTe_SKkXK-pw2XZj4T-FakJ77NygmFnWPEU66DWXbkrIXKG_y5CIelhSiJL2TyM0FvG/s640/DSC04110.JPG" title="Singer 401G throat plate positioning lever" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The stitch selector must be set at AL and the red lever at position 1.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4dHI2eoIDegUQet0-hatNpM4DMw4B49qQskaJYN1EVKytNs5oJF9Z_S8wL7dFWGuXAo81fVgtU4BamhkKYrte31Vek2ugVHb7znpXxVUJyqL8EV6bfsUhmkSHBQWQVbokPuq7f2Yo2hXS/s1600/DSC04107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4dHI2eoIDegUQet0-hatNpM4DMw4B49qQskaJYN1EVKytNs5oJF9Z_S8wL7dFWGuXAo81fVgtU4BamhkKYrte31Vek2ugVHb7znpXxVUJyqL8EV6bfsUhmkSHBQWQVbokPuq7f2Yo2hXS/s640/DSC04107.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">With the work clamped down by the presser foot and the needle aligned with a hole on the left side of the button take one stitch (turning the balance wheel by hand) and stop with the needle just above the foot.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPmLwNeJYA3rQ0Es0ajanELJ-kn1tMZqMA_PiggYNeXskG1TXRrZ8NJeUPCxuMKmgNmMKjyUQzDHN2xVJ-g3qvGb3MZpW6JbePeTBcdFybqt4MkxG7BsBhZ2KmAknCu8nJwwzo-MKyony8/s1600/DSC04108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPmLwNeJYA3rQ0Es0ajanELJ-kn1tMZqMA_PiggYNeXskG1TXRrZ8NJeUPCxuMKmgNmMKjyUQzDHN2xVJ-g3qvGb3MZpW6JbePeTBcdFybqt4MkxG7BsBhZ2KmAknCu8nJwwzo-MKyony8/s640/DSC04108.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Then move the red lever to position 4 and take six zigzag stitches ending with the needle back on the left side.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnEjPI6nEkD0PB993metCK0RIO0Mo3hU2VuNJaNhiBT8MfIsucmGEda7YBlzAL7pD9vm3sS75jr7gO_zMcrECSbnFQNMe2GicpR3LE90zgqO4nv_rIzJTfzOjvlXBinbcJiXkbH2ofgVVy/s1600/DSC04109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnEjPI6nEkD0PB993metCK0RIO0Mo3hU2VuNJaNhiBT8MfIsucmGEda7YBlzAL7pD9vm3sS75jr7gO_zMcrECSbnFQNMe2GicpR3LE90zgqO4nv_rIzJTfzOjvlXBinbcJiXkbH2ofgVVy/s640/DSC04109.JPG" title="Singer 401G red lever" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Move the red lever back to position 1 and take three stitches to secure the button. Remove the work from the machine and trim the loose threads. It's <i>that </i>easy. It takes seconds. I kid you not!</span>Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-48304660858162140522013-10-24T23:35:00.000+01:002013-10-25T22:12:43.666+01:00Greist Buttonholer #1<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">This arrived last week. It was just in time to make the buttonholes on the <a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/simplicity-1960-french-back-boxer.html" target="_blank">French back boxers</a>. I am rather taken with it for a number of reasons - the funky box is only one of them.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZH5tyh0_7uY5D65HGyu19GaFYx65S18tt4TJX6RIPs3OHqFIBXAn7oHbYOGg4lToEIQHXNK7rlxKgRWbm-sckafqISUy77pSsnl63o9A26zOAXGup4mG_Dj40ZaO3lkQiq9nKAu5-b0w/s1600/DSC04094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZH5tyh0_7uY5D65HGyu19GaFYx65S18tt4TJX6RIPs3OHqFIBXAn7oHbYOGg4lToEIQHXNK7rlxKgRWbm-sckafqISUy77pSsnl63o9A26zOAXGup4mG_Dj40ZaO3lkQiq9nKAu5-b0w/s640/DSC04094.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">According to the back of the box Greist seem to have offered a bewildering range of buttonholers, no fewer than ten, to suit every conceivable sewing machine. Make sure you get the right one. For standard low shanks (like my Singers 15K, 28K, 99K and 201K) it's model <span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">#</span>1. If you're looking for a buttonholer to suit a Singer slant shank it's model <span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">#5.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJJ0_jaBZaQAslkF1pnbOnoqp2WbB5CMXARXfTAygvWyjQcmA946rbUXPXRmHGcsBTDd33KqpUlsNbCgZ-KFmN6weYaLeazA2M7wiqhShvcOUvktzQm1zUixZg8TnwBOiEJ03LFT9qBbB/s1600/DSC04095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJJ0_jaBZaQAslkF1pnbOnoqp2WbB5CMXARXfTAygvWyjQcmA946rbUXPXRmHGcsBTDd33KqpUlsNbCgZ-KFmN6weYaLeazA2M7wiqhShvcOUvktzQm1zUixZg8TnwBOiEJ03LFT9qBbB/s640/DSC04095.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Inside the box is the buttonholer itself;</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyrUOgXi5r4yUTngYy-kwIHIy9ZQISWif2_Mx-PVNOdmy_Eumbeoz19LU4OQp6bdYiQxXZH5hMHULkI8ufj5cYLOZF1rbo7laZGkLz6BIRR68JW6Cc-6pkTfWtNCGvouUX8l4UHkZMavW/s1600/DSC04096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyrUOgXi5r4yUTngYy-kwIHIy9ZQISWif2_Mx-PVNOdmy_Eumbeoz19LU4OQp6bdYiQxXZH5hMHULkI8ufj5cYLOZF1rbo7laZGkLz6BIRR68JW6Cc-6pkTfWtNCGvouUX8l4UHkZMavW/s640/DSC04096.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">cover plate and screw;</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBO-aLo8cbPxBPkoMnpUV56ICbqZLVgxeKpoXHvjzUAB89iYzYpc0zg6MuEuMIVwkhUjaS4pxZxxAxAfEcghlRxSrZ2QVmDb7YgAEKa5NaCLanbQ-xPR9F1zO_xPdsaml22k61Rloh_-Xt/s1600/DSC04100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBO-aLo8cbPxBPkoMnpUV56ICbqZLVgxeKpoXHvjzUAB89iYzYpc0zg6MuEuMIVwkhUjaS4pxZxxAxAfEcghlRxSrZ2QVmDb7YgAEKa5NaCLanbQ-xPR9F1zO_xPdsaml22k61Rloh_-Xt/s640/DSC04100.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">five button hole templates;</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidscUoyO4pQGACHiYQQciaj0bSO7Lb8thf9Xc3XbOn6KioTO9Q_hofBv97wnIU5434csi3GnqUTHoy1JA23KMT_cmETvcLQMdyOz6B3L8cKoxQsHsKcAvpDOJm1Ugio3CDPHpgUSaPiUYD/s1600/DSC04098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidscUoyO4pQGACHiYQQciaj0bSO7Lb8thf9Xc3XbOn6KioTO9Q_hofBv97wnIU5434csi3GnqUTHoy1JA23KMT_cmETvcLQMdyOz6B3L8cKoxQsHsKcAvpDOJm1Ugio3CDPHpgUSaPiUYD/s640/DSC04098.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">and (best of all in some respects) the instruction book.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbxm_zSzFKtkB-DcgG9TOxmNQ8nq15xLkFQgMbiAbMHxUTubCV4n7EJs6s403Lj5DBVw01pJ0wYPhsoDPn0S2mMFyLwHymn9QcVvkRHQl_e1pjma-ElmjtwhoZieFi5jdena6sqvQsV82x/s1600/DSC04101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbxm_zSzFKtkB-DcgG9TOxmNQ8nq15xLkFQgMbiAbMHxUTubCV4n7EJs6s403Lj5DBVw01pJ0wYPhsoDPn0S2mMFyLwHymn9QcVvkRHQl_e1pjma-ElmjtwhoZieFi5jdena6sqvQsV82x/s640/DSC04101.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The instructions are copyrighted 1966 so the buttonholer can't be any earlier than that although I am given to understand that Greist produced this design of buttonholer we'll into the 1980s. I love the colour of the buttonholer and the instructions it looks very mid sixties to me.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The instructions are really well written and even offers tips on what size thread and needles to use. I was interested and delighted to read the following <b>Special Note</b><i> </i>which I have <i>never</i> seen in a Singer instruction booklet!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPVHFRFE-JbS_jU2V-sKG2LeKBBWNOhcpGQSzOAfOmklYUFrB5UdYSSAcRthjrCiLp5hcNjeKPICzOkz37HGUSb_aAk0Yitd837L0785XaRcpUiG_v70lx76Il7B9BG58fzIkGAyDiUeL2/s1600/DSC04104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPVHFRFE-JbS_jU2V-sKG2LeKBBWNOhcpGQSzOAfOmklYUFrB5UdYSSAcRthjrCiLp5hcNjeKPICzOkz37HGUSb_aAk0Yitd837L0785XaRcpUiG_v70lx76Il7B9BG58fzIkGAyDiUeL2/s640/DSC04104.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">This buttonholer should come with five templates - 5/16", 5/8", 13/16", 1 1/16" (straight and keyhole). Mine came with a rather odd, but useful, mix 5/16", 1/2", 5/8", 7/8" keyhole and eyelet. The templates are plastic but as far as I can gather earlier versions used pot metal ones and they are interchangeable. Even better than that, Greist made buttonholers for Singer and the templates from these are also interchangeable.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">This buttonholer is smooth and surprisingly quite in use and makes great buttonholes. I think this one is going to be getting a lot of use probably with the Singer 201K with dropped feed dogs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I love the back of the instruction manual as a parting shot!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnidO9uMGCGWs-TUoPVj1z9-JejDSUQ9ezVMmOfZUjsFJodevR_evhJSrdmc9TSUwehhiXZyOD3alnBNxUJRNLGLatgVUr0vsOHrpC-6P28pQA1PMCiub3aMuSW8aotTOJI4_go46PpMI9/s1600/DSC04105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnidO9uMGCGWs-TUoPVj1z9-JejDSUQ9ezVMmOfZUjsFJodevR_evhJSrdmc9TSUwehhiXZyOD3alnBNxUJRNLGLatgVUr0vsOHrpC-6P28pQA1PMCiub3aMuSW8aotTOJI4_go46PpMI9/s400/DSC04105.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-62698717233030023442013-10-20T19:00:00.000+01:002013-10-20T19:00:56.995+01:00Simplicity 1960: French Back Boxer Shorts - Pt II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here are the finished boxers. I added the buttonholes using my new toy a Griest #1 template buttonholer for low shank machines (this means YOU Mr Singer 201K). I was very happy with the results. I am planning a full photo-tour and review of the new (to me) buttonholer in a future post.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGKuv9UAmMXZ2e6OL17_Ld6GKkZAH_pghhFps3boLoveKgQJxseGjxITgN43yeu9NfcuObjA9UQYDnh_StVE4D4k522Mrqx8aYEwg5Tju8iW511quY0K3L9ZOYiek4_2Mr_uhIbgd2grIC/s1600/DSC04089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhazRgCwuu46KZiT4cTTkbLHjcrflx9gDJnScG2iZbxkljagBbDrN0sDRrJCyjTt3u5VPdpx1k7G47ncpHSM6ojn9HhOls3ptEMCOibNPYSO8CEjdJfcSIU9C2wO0ELgHnhstPUBEV35BhJ/s1600/DSC04090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGKuv9UAmMXZ2e6OL17_Ld6GKkZAH_pghhFps3boLoveKgQJxseGjxITgN43yeu9NfcuObjA9UQYDnh_StVE4D4k522Mrqx8aYEwg5Tju8iW511quY0K3L9ZOYiek4_2Mr_uhIbgd2grIC/s1600/DSC04089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="French back boxer shorts" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGKuv9UAmMXZ2e6OL17_Ld6GKkZAH_pghhFps3boLoveKgQJxseGjxITgN43yeu9NfcuObjA9UQYDnh_StVE4D4k522Mrqx8aYEwg5Tju8iW511quY0K3L9ZOYiek4_2Mr_uhIbgd2grIC/s640/DSC04089.JPG" title="Yoke front boxer shorts" width="640" /></a></div>
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Front and back there are seven half-inch buttonholes and one additional thirteen-sixteenths vertical buttonhole which allows the waistbands to cross at the back. It's a lot of work but we all get a buzz out of using an automatic buttonhole attachment right?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhazRgCwuu46KZiT4cTTkbLHjcrflx9gDJnScG2iZbxkljagBbDrN0sDRrJCyjTt3u5VPdpx1k7G47ncpHSM6ojn9HhOls3ptEMCOibNPYSO8CEjdJfcSIU9C2wO0ELgHnhstPUBEV35BhJ/s1600/DSC04090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhazRgCwuu46KZiT4cTTkbLHjcrflx9gDJnScG2iZbxkljagBbDrN0sDRrJCyjTt3u5VPdpx1k7G47ncpHSM6ojn9HhOls3ptEMCOibNPYSO8CEjdJfcSIU9C2wO0ELgHnhstPUBEV35BhJ/s640/DSC04090.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The position of the buttons at the back give a range of adjustment for expanding and contracting waists. I think this design must have arisen from wartime and post war shortages of elastic.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjqYcjLZkpK45Aiiw8snQm7lvILNr3MuNeuw2rQ91fEHgdZI7c46QRcrEFUWDtO8_I-IOuTB1ReoGVC3rwTF8tRvZuvg8lg1ZeENXsC9lVBsDeRg1wi3Eku3Mby28e2EVbunuzRSC35gH/s1600/DSC04092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjqYcjLZkpK45Aiiw8snQm7lvILNr3MuNeuw2rQ91fEHgdZI7c46QRcrEFUWDtO8_I-IOuTB1ReoGVC3rwTF8tRvZuvg8lg1ZeENXsC9lVBsDeRg1wi3Eku3Mby28e2EVbunuzRSC35gH/s640/DSC04092.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The half inch (12mm) buttons I used were saved from shirts I cut up last year to turn into my first quilt. There a total of nine so I think can be forgiven for sewing them on with the Singer 401G. I used white thread to match the buttons rather than pink to match the shorts. Sewing buttons on with a vintage Singer is probably worth a post all of its own sometime soon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf24XIel47raHQGOLbXKzLpskGReTtHMolYMueVXuRX6PBCjbUtvYRnHMieeD2A0yMfIkkSMfbTdRLgpH1nX7g1G6uhoDJ2NWnYYapdubaVqcfj73Xb8ZEIrRsOrrEDePesR2wHEzU2mLa/s1600/DSC04093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf24XIel47raHQGOLbXKzLpskGReTtHMolYMueVXuRX6PBCjbUtvYRnHMieeD2A0yMfIkkSMfbTdRLgpH1nX7g1G6uhoDJ2NWnYYapdubaVqcfj73Xb8ZEIrRsOrrEDePesR2wHEzU2mLa/s640/DSC04093.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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I am happy with the way these turned out but. I will need to forget how much work they are before I am tempted to make them again.</div>
Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-36268752830670775712013-10-19T21:50:00.001+01:002013-10-19T21:51:10.843+01:00Simplicity 1960: French Back Boxer Shorts - Pt I<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I have had this pink and blue striped cotton shirting for months. I picked it up cheaply on eBay. I washed it to preshrink it ages ago and then it took me ever so long to remember to take it with me to the shops so that I could buy matching thread. I no longer trust my memory of colour to buy thread. Unless it's black or white. After the fabric was preshrunk I was left with just under two yards.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpWCtTaUN3ZVQdmgG5SZ7g6Wp3vd6vptnx5RqhXBeGwtUng-MIkIJj1Xiae4YlWKJOjKy9byLyGpx9eSqGbjVwHzQWqhssAiI5ZauMvtlU26BN6uOkaF1zWeD-mjtyIDKeDqiMUUX_UDhU/s1600/DSC04071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpWCtTaUN3ZVQdmgG5SZ7g6Wp3vd6vptnx5RqhXBeGwtUng-MIkIJj1Xiae4YlWKJOjKy9byLyGpx9eSqGbjVwHzQWqhssAiI5ZauMvtlU26BN6uOkaF1zWeD-mjtyIDKeDqiMUUX_UDhU/s640/DSC04071.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">That's a slightly awkward yardage - not really enough for a shirt. I decided that the only option would have to be boxers. I had a bit of spare time on my hands so I elected to make one of the most complicated patterns for boxer shorts in the world: Simplicity 1960 <span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">©1945.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I have made boxers from this pattern once or twice before, retracing and redrafting the pattern to allow for my ample girth </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">©2013. I pressed the pattern pieces and fabric in the usual way prior to cutting out. I cut out using the rotary cutter with the help of Ramses II and Venus who always like to get in on the act at this stage.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWN6nOBjTE0F01plU8dcO2_k_gTCEV6aY9NWjqDQT-Zv66Eo4Vu9qJvkfffjFvztJXranVOEFd143BXjjz3G_an67T_nz3qwVUc5BR_b_YVjcrUXzb-w9jvIogoedRcajr4jTRjf2WcY-L/s1600/DSC04073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWN6nOBjTE0F01plU8dcO2_k_gTCEV6aY9NWjqDQT-Zv66Eo4Vu9qJvkfffjFvztJXranVOEFd143BXjjz3G_an67T_nz3qwVUc5BR_b_YVjcrUXzb-w9jvIogoedRcajr4jTRjf2WcY-L/s640/DSC04073.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The first step is to make two pleats in the fronts of the boxers. These are clearly marked on the pattern pieces and the stripes on the fabric certainly help.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4vDrwPhKVm8z1eZ9kCvQLzR2F5tamR1qDDRQSyP317qvT4Sl61eJLvjWBYkZoORcuD3Wb0UqpqAs1eGd1U3NUg6HSYB9eHjm7YnL4HB94zLRQGHFMlIuL7v6JW_Oep_9_zCEnBpFY45-/s1600/DSC04074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4vDrwPhKVm8z1eZ9kCvQLzR2F5tamR1qDDRQSyP317qvT4Sl61eJLvjWBYkZoORcuD3Wb0UqpqAs1eGd1U3NUg6HSYB9eHjm7YnL4HB94zLRQGHFMlIuL7v6JW_Oep_9_zCEnBpFY45-/s640/DSC04074.JPG" title="Knife pleats" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I secured the pleats with pins.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTOpkuPpf_lE9mkD-KUFRRoZgmZQbWYBgWEhFdRZSHP08k0Zlte9D3GLmgEI1VKM4X8r6f8dLTuCKOTmFV8RrITsWxXOBPUU8p4uzmdAn02ZvLZ6uhJsoYPIPtEkZcupYuS6YETtr3KJD/s1600/DSC04075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTOpkuPpf_lE9mkD-KUFRRoZgmZQbWYBgWEhFdRZSHP08k0Zlte9D3GLmgEI1VKM4X8r6f8dLTuCKOTmFV8RrITsWxXOBPUU8p4uzmdAn02ZvLZ6uhJsoYPIPtEkZcupYuS6YETtr3KJD/s640/DSC04075.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Last Sunday we did some organising in the sewing room so now I can used the Singer 201K in it's No.41 cabinet. It's the first time it has seen any treadle action since the <a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/negroni-shirt-part-vii.html" target="_blank">arsenic green Negroni shirt</a> back in June! I've rather missed it. It's now positioned to the right of a window so the light, by day, is good. I set the stitch length to the longest tacking/basting stitch 6spi.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFpVdiCVII3mA7-hFCyc-xheE99F7tguUwcUJQBzpL3jc6_FjYFpkDYaV9riMDBDzciXlaD670j8fWB3KMZXDLRr2wgzfSW6Qz6inPLnrplIbFhgW6uAwcq5EujqcmfdFzvrH6BTDTPolf/s1600/DSC04076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFpVdiCVII3mA7-hFCyc-xheE99F7tguUwcUJQBzpL3jc6_FjYFpkDYaV9riMDBDzciXlaD670j8fWB3KMZXDLRr2wgzfSW6Qz6inPLnrplIbFhgW6uAwcq5EujqcmfdFzvrH6BTDTPolf/s640/DSC04076.JPG" title="Singer 201K stitch length control" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">And sewed about <span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">¼ inch from the top of the boxers to secure the pleats.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8ZPaoYRdOYrvM786hWgm4-TkfzzI0XVgO1KELLoTWMONMw5XwvxjKVbzFOjTJWHegMhcE3Fs1vlhDZ_qdhjgHD7oGb5GllGlo3rAXmGP4Z3Yu9FoKdO86e8iV-y52Qqmx8DnPX4K7ti7/s1600/DSC04077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8ZPaoYRdOYrvM786hWgm4-TkfzzI0XVgO1KELLoTWMONMw5XwvxjKVbzFOjTJWHegMhcE3Fs1vlhDZ_qdhjgHD7oGb5GllGlo3rAXmGP4Z3Yu9FoKdO86e8iV-y52Qqmx8DnPX4K7ti7/s640/DSC04077.JPG" title="Securing knife pleats" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The next step is to secure the two fronts together at the crotch seam using a flat felled seam. This is a little tricky as the seam allowance has a curved taper from </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">⅝ inch down to nothing. Careful pressing and folding and a slow but steady foot on the treadle are a must. Lightly marking the sewing line with a pencil doesn't hurt either.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUehr4dJrI5rt8CZ0zxoKwASTkViffN0PqzZWE0uHI9BeESU_1wPEO6qxUCd-NVUBUV28VwXOatmA2yVsNusTATRkIyg8gm5XF94jRYKzGsHHR523EzjSPrma6kZ5HCOCd37F0keLfXsMM/s1600/DSC04079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUehr4dJrI5rt8CZ0zxoKwASTkViffN0PqzZWE0uHI9BeESU_1wPEO6qxUCd-NVUBUV28VwXOatmA2yVsNusTATRkIyg8gm5XF94jRYKzGsHHR523EzjSPrma6kZ5HCOCd37F0keLfXsMM/s640/DSC04079.JPG" title="Simplicity 1960 Boxer shorts flat felled crotch seam" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0px;">Here both fronts have been pleated and joined at the crotch.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTT_C9KSzQM6coGFK_WniB0qHAhC2mIZ2Md0GSXlcdMuyl-JGQ6uwPq3skk072nPC60C1zQM55yIxitdHahuIVcbZw44fpQMqMKF06OA-sbLKXX1siOuo2Wu2czVLJnfuaHXyczIxR_BW/s1600/DSC04078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Knife pleats" border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGTT_C9KSzQM6coGFK_WniB0qHAhC2mIZ2Md0GSXlcdMuyl-JGQ6uwPq3skk072nPC60C1zQM55yIxitdHahuIVcbZw44fpQMqMKF06OA-sbLKXX1siOuo2Wu2czVLJnfuaHXyczIxR_BW/s640/DSC04078.JPG" title="Simplicity 1960 boxershorts" width="540" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I then turned my attention to the seat panel and the questionable pleasure of creating a continuous lap. The first time I made this pattern I actually had to look up what it was. Thank goodness for the Internet-o-graph!</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJUJqg0imdnY13XwI3Bj5UlC3ln58VCNNSaPE1ZxRxN2XSOWqNuNqBLQDo687_X4lbINYtnRNwCZAkdRijBuTGbY3_qecaUqxPrSdrxNuHXw5UAYt4qSfoD86X9-cJPRwJgM4xi7Yz9btM/s1600/DSC04081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJUJqg0imdnY13XwI3Bj5UlC3ln58VCNNSaPE1ZxRxN2XSOWqNuNqBLQDo687_X4lbINYtnRNwCZAkdRijBuTGbY3_qecaUqxPrSdrxNuHXw5UAYt4qSfoD86X9-cJPRwJgM4xi7Yz9btM/s640/DSC04081.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The first step is to stay stitch a V either side of the centre back. The pattern has this V marked on it. I marked it lightly on the fabric with a sharp pencil.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0f98Q07aIQNkSPOhtOv-y8XfzObN8Q6v63fxEbABpV-1na9q4a-T9xpYQUtWQ9dh08OYK-ZTiWGw5Kp1VftwOPXsQCX_kuMmk6Fg6aoma7LO7NJsT2bLj3O30T49hzagJfl5jFwDDN5c/s1600/DSC04082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0f98Q07aIQNkSPOhtOv-y8XfzObN8Q6v63fxEbABpV-1na9q4a-T9xpYQUtWQ9dh08OYK-ZTiWGw5Kp1VftwOPXsQCX_kuMmk6Fg6aoma7LO7NJsT2bLj3O30T49hzagJfl5jFwDDN5c/s640/DSC04082.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I then carefully slashed between the two lines of stay stitching - making sure not cut through the line of stitches.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDO5-nlSFLsbUx_lOXPw_gEfcFVaHL5UcoQ45yA0R38mRMZV8vhh1vDaw_8eQpc05_gSJHXQfP-rVCpmOJvyFJz9jwq9Ym4aY32c6y7vOak6LhuHO9Lm0mk2uzm7OM9vYUE44p8cVTJavz/s1600/DSC04083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDO5-nlSFLsbUx_lOXPw_gEfcFVaHL5UcoQ45yA0R38mRMZV8vhh1vDaw_8eQpc05_gSJHXQfP-rVCpmOJvyFJz9jwq9Ym4aY32c6y7vOak6LhuHO9Lm0mk2uzm7OM9vYUE44p8cVTJavz/s640/DSC04083.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">And then (and this is the really silly bit) you have to open the V up until it as near a straight line as possible and pin a strip of fabric along the raw edge.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXFp7Z0_vwtC8V97r5MDTGS1xiMMTvbeMrOAgOm62XHGUf8qnU2R4u4qpeuhgxdpQvPR6tCgdoyVY4b_QpJlWUpGfddHAp-QBProAzmWEqn48qxZMgkoRkleCve8y0fHD2UVoVeKGqtOHt/s1600/DSC04084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXFp7Z0_vwtC8V97r5MDTGS1xiMMTvbeMrOAgOm62XHGUf8qnU2R4u4qpeuhgxdpQvPR6tCgdoyVY4b_QpJlWUpGfddHAp-QBProAzmWEqn48qxZMgkoRkleCve8y0fHD2UVoVeKGqtOHt/s640/DSC04084.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">And then (the silly and HARD bit) stitch it - oh so carefully! - in place in such a way that the line of stay stitching will be enclosed.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRm6wVWNE1GG4S7VNRYEayxRuCcmsG8hlwNStQcS69jKoHnOkf7eVguyPDWuj_b13pPRHbI0pZYfHKvTOtS4r99JIlwMdVtdIozejHFGQ1NJdy4Qq2_DnSElkWLBvqOuGYhWIGofUU7K9l/s1600/DSC04085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRm6wVWNE1GG4S7VNRYEayxRuCcmsG8hlwNStQcS69jKoHnOkf7eVguyPDWuj_b13pPRHbI0pZYfHKvTOtS4r99JIlwMdVtdIozejHFGQ1NJdy4Qq2_DnSElkWLBvqOuGYhWIGofUU7K9l/s640/DSC04085.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Finally the raw </span>edge of the strip is turned under and the fold top stitched to the right side of the seat panel. This forms a sort of gusset. I didn't find it easy. It's well worth practising with scraps. The pattern instructions call for a one inch strip for the binding. Make it a generous inch. I made mine nearer 1⅛ inch and was satisfied with the result.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwascwshniq2NFIS4nT1WRD9rU9PQhbVNOM4k4dH3vNn3SbcGdnFt8a9aUt89QKmPMRgGVV2aIp6xHP79Cy_-CTwgIC9T8z286G23fcAmEdubPtW4ToYu645so4IVM2NbT_b4NwwAReyE/s1600/DSC04086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwascwshniq2NFIS4nT1WRD9rU9PQhbVNOM4k4dH3vNn3SbcGdnFt8a9aUt89QKmPMRgGVV2aIp6xHP79Cy_-CTwgIC9T8z286G23fcAmEdubPtW4ToYu645so4IVM2NbT_b4NwwAReyE/s640/DSC04086.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">After all that fuss sewing the seat panel to the fronts and joining the legs (all with flat felled seams) seams like child's play.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Here is where I ran out of steam. The basic construction is complete with the two part yoke sewn to the wrong side of the shorts, folded over and then </span>edge stitched to the right side.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8o0CmpjwEQJK_wKFpPqou36pZTl8PqKlfuQ-14Mi7sagRBKC_7J3vZTHsL46Dw-hgtcB6HAf3_2fZU6FkO9WqdHVXRl9spE8L-zKFA0ARN46hzEjE0ymGEr4M0O6ODkbXHGeh-ZGgirAO/s1600/DSC04087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Yoke front boxer shorts" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8o0CmpjwEQJK_wKFpPqou36pZTl8PqKlfuQ-14Mi7sagRBKC_7J3vZTHsL46Dw-hgtcB6HAf3_2fZU6FkO9WqdHVXRl9spE8L-zKFA0ARN46hzEjE0ymGEr4M0O6ODkbXHGeh-ZGgirAO/s640/DSC04087.JPG" title="Simplicity 1960 Boxer Shorts - front" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The boxers still lack a hem, button holes, and buttons but they will have to wait for another day. At the back the two piece yoke combines with the continuous lap to form an adjustable waistband which negates the need for elastic. How's that for austerity spec?!</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVAxXv3zCgRtrymMZjhxSexgbtoE5QylyCLYzU81-ekiovZ0ciVndCY128iattekG8kQGfJQjR0Xw240Op8eFTHaEyNsyu-n-JOeLkAoxbVCtfkMpgj2mShjjJnnNarSAi1wEQV4DqJqi/s1600/DSC04088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="French back boxer shorts" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVAxXv3zCgRtrymMZjhxSexgbtoE5QylyCLYzU81-ekiovZ0ciVndCY128iattekG8kQGfJQjR0Xw240Op8eFTHaEyNsyu-n-JOeLkAoxbVCtfkMpgj2mShjjJnnNarSAi1wEQV4DqJqi/s640/DSC04088.JPG" title="Simplicity 1960 Boxer Shorts - back" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><br /></span></span>Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-56915689773241020742013-10-12T12:37:00.000+01:002013-10-12T12:37:10.749+01:00Wrap Around Pinny Finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is one of those sewing projects that stalled and would not restart for some time. It was nearly finished for ages but now it is really finished.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiebP-TWK4XPsoh-PDoH1BW1vOQ0elgngF606Tb3FcrvXjRO0mdgzmpL5csFjKAV2HsuJnW_sdT0HPUM8so61NZTFgPshZUjquitqPr8krlZM2y8Cnjzbb0-Unz85r2t_wHEgMMfUpMMlaq/s1600/DSC04061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiebP-TWK4XPsoh-PDoH1BW1vOQ0elgngF606Tb3FcrvXjRO0mdgzmpL5csFjKAV2HsuJnW_sdT0HPUM8so61NZTFgPshZUjquitqPr8krlZM2y8Cnjzbb0-Unz85r2t_wHEgMMfUpMMlaq/s640/DSC04061.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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If I had a dress form I could have shown this off a little better but the coat hanger give some idea. The pinny crosses over at the front and ties with a slim bow at the back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg43znJfrL3BLNFOtMp0ZHs0wbIdVHQQasvho0qjYeTA_5OaqEcKmW50djYaJAukkAkKy6OWhRSzLTTYFxdl2CEV83Ew0BQ-7v_eNFBcezi7yOmHl6FhZ5HzV2WbJT2ld9OxIRYzVmKpygZ/s1600/DSC04062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg43znJfrL3BLNFOtMp0ZHs0wbIdVHQQasvho0qjYeTA_5OaqEcKmW50djYaJAukkAkKy6OWhRSzLTTYFxdl2CEV83Ew0BQ-7v_eNFBcezi7yOmHl6FhZ5HzV2WbJT2ld9OxIRYzVmKpygZ/s640/DSC04062.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The two ties are secured at the waist with a rectangle of topstitching on the inside of the pinny.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-UbnYtSNcLwJIr-iNpAJPuCPBs035aeycld-m15knPSkb9GlaV_AByeHNNqI2op1sNoL8r4a1bQ1RKq0G4c5UtG7J2JVZ8OP42Jm0Hv2CLBa8wmeHcMzDp3xvfnB72Lke72PVWKbZsbN/s1600/DSC04068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-UbnYtSNcLwJIr-iNpAJPuCPBs035aeycld-m15knPSkb9GlaV_AByeHNNqI2op1sNoL8r4a1bQ1RKq0G4c5UtG7J2JVZ8OP42Jm0Hv2CLBa8wmeHcMzDp3xvfnB72Lke72PVWKbZsbN/s640/DSC04068.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The tie on the left front passes through a small gap in the side seam under the armhole on the righthand side of the pinny. I reinforced this with some back and forward stitches rather than a worked buttonhole. This is a utility garment after all.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsF5M11xXQRRECmo5XAZspy6KAcdmkRl138WbfhfeUyyk5-l3R8cRy2985Ll33BRy5JPtUmS8qC5ZH00mLxvvfReAL-VEbzr6JiBH8wnT_eNg_eIsigjPv-pam-qj0yFOpgtghIcdC3Pk4/s1600/DSC04063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsF5M11xXQRRECmo5XAZspy6KAcdmkRl138WbfhfeUyyk5-l3R8cRy2985Ll33BRy5JPtUmS8qC5ZH00mLxvvfReAL-VEbzr6JiBH8wnT_eNg_eIsigjPv-pam-qj0yFOpgtghIcdC3Pk4/s640/DSC04063.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The stalling point for me was the bias binding. There must be about five yard of the stuff on this garment. I made my own and first tried to attach it with the vintage binding foot on the Singer 99K. The straights went well but it struggles with sharper curves and crossing seams. I had to unpick the dodgy bits and go back over them with the regulars straight stitch foot.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLIALLopA2cHNXCqrPGeeCHOI8hVhneCiVjxLE-saC7epYmcAq8XEmbQI4QsGv9yyvccH6uyGjJWmhD2GtmCjyG7RtDFX7FE1JCJ2-m4JzWQ-BwMUpiik7idKy-tdBCs97F8lE4MwtX8P2/s1600/DSC04064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLIALLopA2cHNXCqrPGeeCHOI8hVhneCiVjxLE-saC7epYmcAq8XEmbQI4QsGv9yyvccH6uyGjJWmhD2GtmCjyG7RtDFX7FE1JCJ2-m4JzWQ-BwMUpiik7idKy-tdBCs97F8lE4MwtX8P2/s640/DSC04064.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I didn't even attempt it on the armholes. I went out and bought a bias binder maker which is loads of fun to use and attached the binding by pinning and sewing once through all five layers. Not the finest of finishes but fine for doing the dishes in.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xDLu093Z2ExgoKkCWycmvjgeIT765HK1xcojOenbm_EAMeDQealCgCA4I3MVIH6g13GUvtK1opk6H8Yk5b-EwnuUP1ZWOVrkE0i1W6d-vk8qUuc1e2HT_oMslBht5A5IOsR7wxMbsPfd/s1600/DSC04067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xDLu093Z2ExgoKkCWycmvjgeIT765HK1xcojOenbm_EAMeDQealCgCA4I3MVIH6g13GUvtK1opk6H8Yk5b-EwnuUP1ZWOVrkE0i1W6d-vk8qUuc1e2HT_oMslBht5A5IOsR7wxMbsPfd/s640/DSC04067.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Not that I will be wearing it for washing the dishes or scrubbing the front step. It's far too small. It has however provided me with practice using bias binding and probably the confidence to have a go at making a dressing gown sometime soon.Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-31582274403465479582013-09-29T14:37:00.000+01:002013-09-29T14:37:14.389+01:00Baby Fence Rail Quilt - Pt VII: The Big FinishThe Baby Fence Rail Quilt is finished. It's new owner came to collect it yesterday afternoon an hour or two after I had put the last stitches into the binding. It was the first time Bill and I had met baby Georgia, who is just four weeks old, and we were captivated<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8dZtvBCgxTWu4gC2V1VknN0jzQ5_6bDeUw_myfaHb0vr-Q71MT6wHQDrtU8hfJvbXRUXKoHNvh36BP_x8jAF9rhdjIWK8Qnx5w8sokCb678d1LnD7IQuAPgNFKZv2wlSGiAA_pnlDmYF/s1600/DSC04053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8dZtvBCgxTWu4gC2V1VknN0jzQ5_6bDeUw_myfaHb0vr-Q71MT6wHQDrtU8hfJvbXRUXKoHNvh36BP_x8jAF9rhdjIWK8Qnx5w8sokCb678d1LnD7IQuAPgNFKZv2wlSGiAA_pnlDmYF/s640/DSC04053.jpg" title="Baby Fence Rail Quilt" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Please excuse my ankles</td></tr>
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I wasn't feeling game enough to do the quilting on the Singer 201K and defaulted to my 'go to' quilter the Singer 401K fitted with the walking foot. I used the same putty-coloured thread to secure the layers as I had used to piece the quilt top. It shows up better from the back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWroeq3xoMsM1KL9FsxnfIU01m8T4Hpe5YH99CWT1ETnnMT0rqLTXrDKGhutUtcvJ13Db6nWiuCcwJc9UyV4jTq0Lo5ej5LY6lJuejVkKX5xmJmB1fQcJXwjTA6OdZn3gCVVdpF_1gVo9c/s1600/DSC04050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWroeq3xoMsM1KL9FsxnfIU01m8T4Hpe5YH99CWT1ETnnMT0rqLTXrDKGhutUtcvJ13Db6nWiuCcwJc9UyV4jTq0Lo5ej5LY6lJuejVkKX5xmJmB1fQcJXwjTA6OdZn3gCVVdpF_1gVo9c/s640/DSC04050.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The fence rail blocks finished at six inches and used the corners of these blocks are the reference point for the diagonal lines of quilting over the central part of the quilt. In this way the lines of quilting are four and a quarter inches apart which should be a nice density for a baby quilt. I quilted in the ditch around the inner border.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4EnwUbDZ78KId8vn3DFOtfqatjc7kPizn-NlOQf4vTdzT7prxn_ChZTMv9qf4WIyQZdGMYRY5U3kC9R6O55JvirOSRnS1njkcSQc0N2vlHAPf0LBzU9f87WXf7gWqPAqaoePhuNYzjYBX/s1600/DSC04048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4EnwUbDZ78KId8vn3DFOtfqatjc7kPizn-NlOQf4vTdzT7prxn_ChZTMv9qf4WIyQZdGMYRY5U3kC9R6O55JvirOSRnS1njkcSQc0N2vlHAPf0LBzU9f87WXf7gWqPAqaoePhuNYzjYBX/s640/DSC04048.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This picture shows how well Bill's choice for the backing fabric works. I think it pops without clashing. When I was binding the quilt I wanted to do this in exactly the same way I bound the <a href="http://oilandthread.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/the-log-cabin-quilt-final.html" target="_blank">Log Cabin</a> quilt earlier in the year. I had the blog to remind me but I hadn't been very detailed. I couldn't for the life of me recall which machine I had used to sew the binding onto the front of the Log Cabin quilt. So here is a note to myself for future reference:<br />
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<li>For the fence rail quilt I used the 401G with the walking foot to sew the binding onto the front of the quilt</li>
<li>I left eight inch tails at the beginning and of the binding which really made it a lot easier to join them together later</li>
<li>I then used a size three between and a ladder stitch to sew the binding onto the back of the quilt using the line of machine stitching from the front as a guide for my hand sewing - yet again this took me hours but I still feel it's time well spent. After all this is a gift for a very special little bundle.</li>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWFnvBx3rMtEMHprAjnYDUbrhq2IvEzO8ILeGzOrMourY1llt96BG7CWRAmfWXTKUA0svqOU98joBUN10nRVrRqmtEHcRGWWDqn5ozn68cZNyRD_QGvSsgN4grntwki-JCp88uR7dzGbW/s1600/1173627_10201681846864173_1993113781_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWFnvBx3rMtEMHprAjnYDUbrhq2IvEzO8ILeGzOrMourY1llt96BG7CWRAmfWXTKUA0svqOU98joBUN10nRVrRqmtEHcRGWWDqn5ozn68cZNyRD_QGvSsgN4grntwki-JCp88uR7dzGbW/s400/1173627_10201681846864173_1993113781_n.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A well-padded friend maybe just as cuddly as a quilt</td></tr>
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Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-88802769495011016832013-09-22T01:13:00.000+01:002013-09-22T01:13:52.798+01:00Has anyone ever heard of a Hussif?I hadn't until I was chatting to follower Ken a week or two ago. I thought I knew what he was talking about until Monday when I treated myself to a copy of the <a href="http://merchantandmills.com/book/">Merchant & Mills SEWING BOOK</a>. When I saw a photograph of their project Hussif I realised the picture I had in my head was well off beam. It turns out that a Hussif is a pocket sewing kit with some whimsical etymology thrown in for good measure.<br />
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I am rather taken by the <a href="http://merchantandmills.com/book/">Merchant & Mills SEWING BOOK</a>. It's an aesthetically pleasing object in its own right and the projects inside are, for the main part, non-gender-specific which makes a welcome change for the male seamster.<br />
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As a confirmed old bachelor with some heavy unbleached calico on his hands I figured that a Hussif is the nearest I am likely to get to a housewife and resolved to knock one up [perhaps I should rephrase that!?]<br />
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Here are some pictures of my version<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyZUS9ph5oO-1hGhNXo4ufWhiWFKDXr0Ctfyf3CWr4Vj4HWSzPmnE8sXw0sQTIAv4xRdAMuzqNb4kaWdWBMvokolZdoLwuKHLK0015xkRpl5kUBdqpFvJXpILdXn0NEP8_jzg6UyqqZw7/s1600/DSC04041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pocket Sewing Kit - open" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyZUS9ph5oO-1hGhNXo4ufWhiWFKDXr0Ctfyf3CWr4Vj4HWSzPmnE8sXw0sQTIAv4xRdAMuzqNb4kaWdWBMvokolZdoLwuKHLK0015xkRpl5kUBdqpFvJXpILdXn0NEP8_jzg6UyqqZw7/s640/DSC04041.JPG" title="Hussif - open" width="640" /></a></div>
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There are seven pockets for <strike>bits and bobs</strike> sewing notions. I made mine the same size as the instructions but the book encourages makers to adjust pocket sizes to fit the objects in their own sewing kit. The striped ticking covers two layers of cotton quilt wadding which form a pin cushion cum needle case.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirmZOkuA6_aUMlTTQvVJ7bQ2_zp9x3IrxZYsj89fbE-Mwk11q0oS2zHBUpkpude96kxxqhyphenhyphenHFVfP4aKTmYqILXRecA5yyM4fIG49JsCHIxc9SiEOMCvHOJAkd1Bj7w5E1vhMsGEjn4pJiV/s1600/DSC04043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pocket Sewing Kit - closed" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirmZOkuA6_aUMlTTQvVJ7bQ2_zp9x3IrxZYsj89fbE-Mwk11q0oS2zHBUpkpude96kxxqhyphenhyphenHFVfP4aKTmYqILXRecA5yyM4fIG49JsCHIxc9SiEOMCvHOJAkd1Bj7w5E1vhMsGEjn4pJiV/s640/DSC04043.JPG" title="Hussif - Merchant and Mills Graphic" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is the Hussif all furled up and tied shut. To give you an idea of size the cotton webbing tape is 25mm (yes I've gone metric today) or one inch wide. I may trim the tape down a bit once things have stretched out a bit.<br />
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The first of two big adventures in making this project was printing the downloadable Merchant and Mills graphic onto what can only be described as magic paper and then transferring this to the front of the Hussif using the iron.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPzoGyxaiwtv3mi7YqvyiRVEq9Dg8FxhUDdnJhyphenhyphenUFxhRihA5XhgQr60r3De3FDR00bAKjAzd_hkPPOekGsZxmRi2Avk0YJP9_HWE_dn3PhiVGQsQcvhOf7WlGJJ78NWd6nsdXyP77N_izp/s1600/DSC04042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPzoGyxaiwtv3mi7YqvyiRVEq9Dg8FxhUDdnJhyphenhyphenUFxhRihA5XhgQr60r3De3FDR00bAKjAzd_hkPPOekGsZxmRi2Avk0YJP9_HWE_dn3PhiVGQsQcvhOf7WlGJJ78NWd6nsdXyP77N_izp/s640/DSC04042.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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I think I may have overcooked the transfer slightly and the instructions on where to position it were not Gavin-proof (I may have got the graphic upside down) but overall I am pleased with the effect. I am left with some mixed feelings about putting a company logo onto an item I have made but I like the look of the finished project and I have tried out something I never would have done otherwise. My mind is now teaming with ideas for some kind of Oil & Thread transfer. Possibly featuring a hen if I can find copyright free image to use.<br />
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Adventure number two is a Singer 401G related discovery and one for the seam guide junkies amongst us (you know who you are). I have discovered that the toe of the general purposes foot can be made to sit under the seam guide. This is shown in the section of the Manual which shows how to blind stitch hems using the "BO" setting. I realised that, with the needle centred (red lever at position 3), this gives scant <span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0px;">⅛ seam allowance.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmulPeg56FuauLjrjrKzlSyityMZ14ig3_YJ1YaaaAd_cxgBb7f9VIlnbPon_3dJ0AQ7c3j0IiWxlQGMnn3NaIlhqddq_zf33xg7eOG5-UIWKdBynbkK8t0t4IHmEnI1s7_eWXLJX94uZ/s1600/DSC04035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Singer slant shank general purpose food and seam guide" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmulPeg56FuauLjrjrKzlSyityMZ14ig3_YJ1YaaaAd_cxgBb7f9VIlnbPon_3dJ0AQ7c3j0IiWxlQGMnn3NaIlhqddq_zf33xg7eOG5-UIWKdBynbkK8t0t4IHmEnI1s7_eWXLJX94uZ/s640/DSC04035.JPG" title="Singer 401G: Edge stitching" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhks9-7OAW6Dfm76vGtdT-FGk3gXF2b6G1R5R11ucwGLs3N5EORwG6II5avdwGI0zCOKbkuI6xZmBHuXc-raMnmmzi2DgpWBIgb27Npka2fp7zW0UJwYAv3hW7AAWWQdlDgcr3MvF39u6Hw/s1600/DSC04036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Singer 401G: General purpose foot and seam guide" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhks9-7OAW6Dfm76vGtdT-FGk3gXF2b6G1R5R11ucwGLs3N5EORwG6II5avdwGI0zCOKbkuI6xZmBHuXc-raMnmmzi2DgpWBIgb27Npka2fp7zW0UJwYAv3hW7AAWWQdlDgcr3MvF39u6Hw/s640/DSC04036.JPG" title="Singer 401G: Edge stitching" width="640" /></a></div>
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When would want a scant <span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0px;">⅛ seam allowance? Well I found it handy when edge stitching the Hussif. I hope you agree that the results are pretty </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span style="font-size: 12px;">tasty.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigRR-gYHIFK2PblhcK86bD9GecCz1lOYAX0cKJOh3eWEegC0H_RnGlWgDYwOhsgH2MMfUMNRm06UoKqnaSOiZj-mQkhqieLnbS96dQt4seLS_AjJ25mRYfSvFNcHy1HqNXR9FpWF1ooSit/s1600/DSC04039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigRR-gYHIFK2PblhcK86bD9GecCz1lOYAX0cKJOh3eWEegC0H_RnGlWgDYwOhsgH2MMfUMNRm06UoKqnaSOiZj-mQkhqieLnbS96dQt4seLS_AjJ25mRYfSvFNcHy1HqNXR9FpWF1ooSit/s640/DSC04039.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I am planning to hold on to this particular Hussif myself. I have something in mind for it. I really enjoyed putting this together. It's a good way to spend a Saturday afternoon. At this point in September I am thinking that one or two of these, filled with some 'heritage' style notions might make good Christmas presents.</div>
Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-75657600292556570502013-09-04T23:05:00.002+01:002013-09-04T23:05:57.301+01:00Baby Fence Rail Pt VI<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">A couple of weekends ago I finally got to the shops to buy some wadding (batting) so that I can finish the Baby Fence Rail quilt. That was the easy part. I still needed to choose a backing fabric (remember the green stuff I bought for the purpose and then turned into a shirt?). After trolling the streets of London for an hour or two I settled on some cassis-coloured (that's pale purple to you and I) cotton sateen lining fabric. Surprisingly the colour combination works.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Having bought the missing ingredients I discovered new enthusiasm for this quilt. So I wasted no time and gave the wadding a bath! This is supposed to remove excess cotton oil which could mark the quilt and to preshrink the wadding. Some people do and some people don't. I guess I am just one of those guys who do.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCM_V2D5u51F7lmQW_lJMe1PfLFU3o9aP28MEdGhbDvJfnlcDdpYBUfH_N-JvMNtpQlOxCIp78o0p-LS_2-qmuNUdXoW-pqEBEvSW9nCaM5iJgN45QoKnGl44jF9I0lG5qFlFsg1LQwXm/s1600/DSC04025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCM_V2D5u51F7lmQW_lJMe1PfLFU3o9aP28MEdGhbDvJfnlcDdpYBUfH_N-JvMNtpQlOxCIp78o0p-LS_2-qmuNUdXoW-pqEBEvSW9nCaM5iJgN45QoKnGl44jF9I0lG5qFlFsg1LQwXm/s640/DSC04025.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">With the wadding and backing fabric washed, preshrunk and dried I layered the quilt sandwich in the usual way. Pausing only to spend a few minutes deliberating over the right/wrong side of the cotton sateen. I decided to put the shiny side out. I thought that this would feel nicest if anyone should try sleeping under the quilt.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBVapfsHsOLvwChploxahZjdqc1DyRbx7I2JeREOBwWJJZ5ZOH-m9KavjMEgCqAONYhMdVjoQIbxsDWdNVVNj09SDzmA-dvQ7KacVGXPxAoQE30g3tLQL4CDTDxIUL5Ea1Nusx-CZgRoO/s1600/DSC04027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBVapfsHsOLvwChploxahZjdqc1DyRbx7I2JeREOBwWJJZ5ZOH-m9KavjMEgCqAONYhMdVjoQIbxsDWdNVVNj09SDzmA-dvQ7KacVGXPxAoQE30g3tLQL4CDTDxIUL5Ea1Nusx-CZgRoO/s640/DSC04027.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">When I sandwiched the Log Cabin quilt one of my readers was rather alarmed by how few pins I used in my basting and I solemnly swore to use more on my next project. I even bought some fancy curved safety pins. I basted at approximately four inches or less and here is a photograph to prove it. I must confess that the whole thing feels a lot firmer and I am hoping it will make the quilting process easier.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmPlGzB8IJbCgTV5hNgFd7ahcUsgacC5Nl87c5gycyt9l1dQroG0SIgOjpwRPVfzMerZqcbm2y5CIGfFsd7G5PBu9F7fOS6gdEutnH7oACtjTbtEyBriZYh1W94elA628GO_nOl50an9R8/s1600/DSC04030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmPlGzB8IJbCgTV5hNgFd7ahcUsgacC5Nl87c5gycyt9l1dQroG0SIgOjpwRPVfzMerZqcbm2y5CIGfFsd7G5PBu9F7fOS6gdEutnH7oACtjTbtEyBriZYh1W94elA628GO_nOl50an9R8/s640/DSC04030.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Now for the really big news. In an exclusive announcement made this evening our spokesman can confirm that this quilt will be quilted OUT of THE DITCH!!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYydr5ZDeTWv3m7SjQrKwH28CAnFPwmRKv47w3XWP4XaTED7TC1P8JUPfqgSoJ4BnhHjLuLWiIAUoEED52E8SXUgd5eqFe3dxCF-8vB0ylQ3XDuNCzjW40hdfYUj62JnMkqEogLEHpdUvp/s1600/DSC04032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYydr5ZDeTWv3m7SjQrKwH28CAnFPwmRKv47w3XWP4XaTED7TC1P8JUPfqgSoJ4BnhHjLuLWiIAUoEED52E8SXUgd5eqFe3dxCF-8vB0ylQ3XDuNCzjW40hdfYUj62JnMkqEogLEHpdUvp/s640/DSC04032.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I have started to mark the quilt top with inch wide masking tape. I am going to quilt the centre of the quilt with a diagonal cross hatched grid. Tomorrow, with a fair wind, I may get the Singer 401G out and lay down that first row of quilting...</span></div>
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<br />Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-176685716195880015.post-29807039303029243612013-08-18T00:39:00.000+01:002013-08-18T00:39:27.144+01:00Seam Guidance or This one's for Matt C<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Of all the sewing machine accessories I own (and they have rather mounted up here over the last year) the one I use the most is my seam guide. This is probably because I use old black sewing machines with no markings on their throat plates. To the best of my limited knowledge there are two basic types of seam guide. The first is quite heavy, T-shaped, and pictured left. This is the kind that tends to come with black japanned Singers with gold decals. The second is made of lighter pressed metal and plastic and tends to be found with the later tan, pale green and duck egg coloured Singers.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-VwcHw2I1Owb2TuIhiKCSSQ35j1da_4DSogcsGD0dU_ImjwedxYOWyP3xHJB_RczFDjZ8UKhc-qytgvO-84ZFfyyWPhhxgph7gvy_eGPCgWG_76Oh1SU87P_WIO7r_EOI3SLJ2VsvTu47/s1600/DSC03360.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-VwcHw2I1Owb2TuIhiKCSSQ35j1da_4DSogcsGD0dU_ImjwedxYOWyP3xHJB_RczFDjZ8UKhc-qytgvO-84ZFfyyWPhhxgph7gvy_eGPCgWG_76Oh1SU87P_WIO7r_EOI3SLJ2VsvTu47/s200/DSC03360.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Early type Singer seam guide</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40kotG4OiL61-UP6AxKrZUwRKRxdRegFEGN9GXZFbYxOck44JSvRNLI1-DnB_gOBV8Iu-atdUf2Urms2x6U_FPBekeUD-QxEkdE5drvmMRQ10f9JCIZa6H478u96pNe-kUV3NeD7jIcAy/s1600/DSC04014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40kotG4OiL61-UP6AxKrZUwRKRxdRegFEGN9GXZFbYxOck44JSvRNLI1-DnB_gOBV8Iu-atdUf2Urms2x6U_FPBekeUD-QxEkdE5drvmMRQ10f9JCIZa6H478u96pNe-kUV3NeD7jIcAy/s200/DSC04014.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Later type Singer seam guide</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_xr4ePo8MT1PqEits-7dOJETuqMoxgsPyPNP76g4vADd_mc15H4z1S4BoqJ-oJItpiuKw5EajfFKqmTw8bYsb3qObXdatCqD2eykdcmcPh6w3tbJWS21igbh0uIJEFGmMxhov5piieT7e/s1600/DSC04015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_xr4ePo8MT1PqEits-7dOJETuqMoxgsPyPNP76g4vADd_mc15H4z1S4BoqJ-oJItpiuKw5EajfFKqmTw8bYsb3qObXdatCqD2eykdcmcPh6w3tbJWS21igbh0uIJEFGmMxhov5piieT7e/s320/DSC04015.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Both types will screw into </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;">either hole in the machine bed of a black Singer sewing machine [say a Singer 66 for instance Matt] I've taken pictures just to prove my point. Notice that the later type can be swivelled about to allow for sewing curved seams.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">If you have a zig-zag machine you can also use this type of seam guide to help with making a blind hem. I haven't done it yet myself but this operation is on my experimental to-do list</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Now this is not, as you might think, a six inch/15 cm ruler. It is, in point of fact, a knitting and sewing gauge. I know this because it has this written on one end of it. This gadget, with its sliding marker, has a number of uses. I use it a lot to set up the seam guides on my black Singers, none of which have markings on their throat plates.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sewing and knitting guage</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Now although these old Singer are not marked in the way that a modern machine would be there are landmarks if you know how to read them. I've tried to illustrate the first here. This is the front one of the two screws which actually hold the throat plate on to the bed of the machine. Check out the seam gauge. If you use the right edge of this screw as a reference point you'll be sewing a quarter inch seam allowance. This is useful for those who piece quilt tops and other patchwork projects.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: left;">The next land mark is the mystery hole nestling snugly in the D-shaped throat plate. Don't look for one of these if you have a VS machine like a Singer 28, 27, 128 or 127 because I don't think you will find one. I'm not entirely sure what the intended purpose of this hole is. I think it might be something to do with an under-braiding attachment sold by Singer. The other interesting fact is that by using this hole as a seam guide you will be sewing a </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px; text-align: left;">⅝ seam which just so happens to be the industry standard for home sewing patterns. Don't </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: left;">believe me? Check the sewing gauge - handy eh?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Now, without the aid of the seam gauge, if you have the older type of seam guide and thumb screw you have two useful default settings. The first I wrote about last time is for a <span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">⅜ seam allowance and the second is achieved in the following way. Set the thumb screw in the threaded hold </span>nearest the throat plate and position the flat side of the seam guide as close to the thumb screw as possible. This creates a spacing of one inch. I suspect that this might well come in handy for turning hems.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Some people have seam guides and use them, some people have sewn beautifully for decades and have never seen a seam guide never mind used one. They were a standard in the accessory boxes for Singer sewing machines so millions must have been stamped out over the years. Bear this in mind if you are going to buy one. I wouldn't want pay more than a couple of pounds for one. It might be more cost effective to buy a job lot of accessories that include a seam guide - mixed lots turn up regularly on ebay. If you can find one to buy cheaply or, even better, get one given to you you will have an easy to use accessory which will really earn its keep.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In parting I leave you with a link to one of Muv's (of Lizzie Leonard Vintage Sewing fame) excellent video tutorials. If you're not familiar with her videos and blog check them out. They are a priceless source for the care and use of vintage machines! I cannot recommend them enough!</span></div>
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Gavin Hendersonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05737186300519027548noreply@blogger.com8