Here at Oil and Thread things hotting up with the Negroni shirt and I am beginning to feel the pressure!
The first job today was to pleat the back of the shirt...
... and baste [tack?] the pleats in place. I used the longest stitch setting on the Singer 201K which runs to six stitches per inch or four millimetres in "new money"
Then I sewed the outer yoke to the back of the shirt. I'm always sort of surprised as my projects begin to resemble the garments they are supposed to be but this really does look like the back of a shirt!
Adding the shirt fronts was fairly straight forward. I couldn't resist draping this shirt-like item over my shoulders - just to see.
Then I waded straight in and added the collar to the back yoke. So far everything is lining up pretty well, notches, circles etc. The directions are to "Baste the collar in place, using a 3/8" seam allowance". This has been the hardest step so far. I think the problem arises from the need to attach a curved edge (the neck line) to a straight edge (the collar) coupled to my inexperience. My last job today was to baste a small loop for the top button onto the left shirt front. You might be able to spot it under the mass of thread.
That's all for today. The next step; Attaching the facing and inner yoke looks like a biggie and I think I need to come to it fresh. We'll see how it goes.
If you have problems manipulating all these strange shaped pieces, the basting can be done by hand with longish stitches. That way there are no pins in the way when you are trying to sew with the machine. Yes, you are correct in your assumption as to the meaning of "basting." It means to temporarily join two pieces together with long stitches.
ReplyDeleteHi Mary Ellen
DeleteThis is where my inexperience shows. I find that pins really DO get in the way sometimes. Somehow they seem to work against me. I don't know if I put too many or too few or in the wrong place or what. Hand basting could be the solution. Thanks for the advice.
Hugs
G
This is looking so perfect! I don't care much for basting but there is reason I guess. Cannot wait to see more :)
ReplyDeleteHello Gavin,
ReplyDeleteIt's looking good!
We are in Blighty, we are allowed to call it tacking. I like to tack by hand, quarter inch stitches, about an eighth of an inch from the stitching line. If you don't machine over it it pulls out easily.
Love,
Muv
Hi Muv
DeleteThank you for the advice. I will try that next time. I bet it's easier to gather ease that way than with pins. I would like to learn to tack like a tailor but I haven't found a thimble to fit my meat hooks yet
Hugs
G
Hello Gavin,
ReplyDeleteYou've done a great job so far.
I always tack by hand too. The length of my stitches however depends on what I need to tack. For parts where I need to ease, sleeves for instance, I make smaller tack stitches in the eased part of the seam. I find it makes it easier to stitch the eased part without false creases.
hugs,
Marianne
I always baste everything. "Attaching the facing and inner yoke looks like a biggie." It is a challenge, but you'll do fine.
ReplyDeleteI had a hard time pinning collars until I learned to make small snips (not too deep!) in the seam allowance om curved edges so that I can attatch the curved edge to the straight edge more easily. :)
ReplyDelete