This is a technique I am trying to teach myself from instructions I found on the internet. It's sometimes call Paper Foundation Piecing and I've also seen it referred to as Stitch and Flip.
I start each block with a paper foundation. I designed this simple log cabin foundation using the table function which is part of word processing software. If you look closely at the photograph you can see that each piece of the block has a number starting with 1 in the darkest square at the middle of the foundation. The shading on my paper foundation is a nod to what I have read about the tonal values of traditional log-cabin blocks.
The next step (for my block) is to cut some fabric. The blue is the left overs of some super smooth shirting I picked up online very reasonably and the white is from one of my shirts whose collar and cuffs were past their best. I have started to cut one and a half inch strips half an inch longer than pieces on the foundation. This gives me my quarter inch seam allowances.
Here I have flipped the paper foundation and pinned my first piece of fabric over the back of the correct section. I hold the paper up to the light to help me centre the fabric. Notice that I have used red for the centre. The story goes that the middle square of the log cabin block is supposed to represent the hearth of the cabin and so it is often red to indicate that fire that would have burned there. I like a good story don't you?
Here I have layered the number two piece of the fabric on top of the first. The next step is to flip the paper foundation back over and carefully carry it to the sewing machine without anything shifting. Next time I will layer first and then pin I think!
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My lovely 1899 Singer 28K |
This is where I start and where I finish. I aim for about a quarter of an inch before and after the outline on the foundation.
I then continue adding strips, pressing with a dry iron as I go, following the numbers and tonal value already printed on the paper foundation. When finished the block looks like this:
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Nice? |
The paper foundation stays with the completed block until I am ready to set the blocks and piece them into a quilt top. At the moment each block takes about an hour to piece (including cutting time) so I suppose I am some way off that.
Hello Gavin,
ReplyDeleteJust wishing you "courage" for the blog. I also have a 201K treadle and a 401G. (currently miffed at the 401 because she wasn't liking the seams on some jean remodeling). I have a number of others as well (it's a disease - treadle carefully). But I've never been tempted by the hand cranks. I guess I have a hard enough time holding on to everything as it is without needing to crank at the same time. I haven't gotten up the courage to takle quilting either, although I look longingly at some, and holy cow, I was born in Paducah, Kentucky USA, practically the quilting capital of the entire world, I will like a traitor with all these machines an not a "block" in sight. Anyway... keep it up.
Hello Papa
ReplyDeleteThanks for visiting the blog and taking the time to comment. Great to hear from another guy who likes machines and very excited that one of them is a "G" most of the 401s I see online are "A"s. Sorry to learn that your 401 has been misbehaving. I know that the Slant-O-Matics can be willful mistresses but I hope you two resolve your differences and reach a working arrangement. I will be posting more over the coming weeks about my other machines and projects so I hope you will be a regular visitor.
Best wishes
G
Nicely done! Your 28K is beautiful, and it looks like it sews wonderfully. I have an old Singer 128 that looks very similar. Happy stitching!
ReplyDeleteHow fun is that? I'm working on a foundation paper piecing wall hanging at the moment.
ReplyDeleteMy machine is a hand cranked Singer 127K. It's a perfect machine for foundation paper projects.
I have two curious cats, you see. With the hand cranked machine I don't have to worry about leaving a machine 'on' while I'm not sewing.
If you don't mind a little advice:
if you add a dotted line to indicate the seam allowance of the finished block, it'll be much easier to sew the finished blocks together.
Best wishes,
Marianne
Hello Marianne
DeleteWelcome to Oil and Thread. Great to hear about your cat proof Singer 127K. That's the big sister to the 128K right? I don't think they're as common as the little ones are they?
I am always happy to listen to advice. I ended up using my ruler to add the seam allowance it would have been better if I had designed it into my foundation from the start.
I'd love to see a pic of your machine and/or you wall hanging.
Hugs
G
Hello Gavin,
DeleteThe Singer 127K is indeed the large version of the 127K.
Maybe they're more common over here in the Netherlands, but I'm not sure.
Anyway it was Muv, who inspired me to look for a vintage sewing machine, when I watched her video on cleaning one. So I went to an auction site and purchased one that looked pretty.
As it happens I was very lucky that the machine was in working order, including the bobbin winder.
I'd love to send you some pictures, but I don't know how. I don't think I can add pictures in a comment box.
hugs,
Marianne
Muv's videos are a great resource aren't they? So clear, well prepared and very professional.
DeleteI love my long bobbin machine. I'm not sure why people tend to prefer class 15 and 66 bobbins. I know people say that they hold more thread but the old VS bobbins don't seem to run out of thread that quickly.
Maybe we can all inspire you to start a sewing blog so that we can see your machine and work?
Hugs
G
Hello Gavin,
DeleteI so enjoy Muv's videos!
As far as long bobbins are concerned, I agree. Mine last longer than I anticipated anyway.
I'll think about starting a blog. It's something I've never done before, but it does sound like fun. I'll look into it.
Hugs,
Marianne
Hello Gavin,
ReplyDeleteJust discovered your blog ..terrific!