Tuesday, 18 June 2013

Negroni Shirt - Part II

Today has been all about making the collar for my Negroni shirt.  I am echoing the pocket flaps with a contrasting under collar.

I wanted to be certain that the lighter coloured fabric would not be visible when the collar is turned down so I spent a bit of time boning up on "the turn of the cloth".  I trimmed about an eighth of an inch off three sides of the under collar in an attempt to ensure that it would not be visible from the "public" side.

I trimmed the seam allowances and  used a letter opener to gently shape the collar points.  They're not identical but very similar and probably as good as the points on some of my shop bought shirts.

Top stitching: Singer 201K, size 11 needle, 12 stitches per inch, Gütermann cotton thread.  This has to be one of the reasons why that model of machine is still so well thought of

I used the quarter inch side of the foot on my sewing machine to guide my top stitching.  One part is not as even as I would like but was too good to rip out.  Some things we live with right?

This piece of textile madness is the inner yoke and facing assembly.

I have interfaced both facings, stay stitched the curved edges of the yokes and facings, turned back and hemmed one edge of the facings and attached them to what will become the inner yoke.  The green linen look cotton might have been ok without the interfacing but I wanted to do things by the book (for the first shirt at least).  I have a feeling that the interfacing made it easier to turn and press the hem.  Something to remember for the future.

Well - so far so good?  Thank you all for looking at the blog.  A special thank you to those of you who have left comments, the encouragement is great and welcome to any new followers.  I hope you are all enjoying your sewing as much as I am at the moment!


  1. Gavin,

    The owl facings and undersides are fabulously hilarious, you are going to enjoy wearing that shirt as much as you are enjoying making it. Also, persuading the edges out of sight is a detail which is so often overlooked, but you are there aiming for the perfect finish.

    And you even put the umlaut on Gutermann. Or is it a diaeresis? Could I be bothered?

    If I suddenly start making dresses it will be because you are giving me the kick.


    1. Hello Muv
      Yes - I thought that the owls were a bit of a giggle. I will enjoy the fact that when I am wearing the shirt they will be hidden but I will know that they are there.

      I always thought is was called an umlaut. In GCSE German we insisted on referring to it as an omelette - ah the sophisticated humour of 16 year olds!

      As for dressmaking - I'd love a video tutorial from you on sewing a 40s frock from 11/0½d uncrushable crepe!


    2. Aagh, Gavin, not eleven shillings and a halfpenny! My pre-decimal self can't cope with such prices...

  2. Gosh your stitching looks amazing, can't wait to see the next steps!

    1. Thank you Karen [G blushes]
      Honestly - I think the stitch quality is down to the clever Singer engineers of yore. The next step will be pleating the shirt back and joining it to the outer yoke.
      Keep watching