Saturday 15 June 2013

PJ Pants

Simplicity 0501 is a free download available here.  It's one of those patterns where you mess about printing it on 25 sheets of paper, match the sheets up, and stick them together with tape.



As this pattern only has two simple pattern pieces this is not too onerous a task but I don't think I'd be up for doing this with anything more complicated. Overlapping printer paper and tape make the pattern rather heavy but it all works.  I used shears to cut out.  I am not too good at curves with the rotary cutter.


The really great thing about this pattern are the lovely clear instructions. They really are written with the beginner in mind. I love the fact that they explain how to cut a double thickness of directional print by folding the fabric in half lengthways, cutting and then rotating one piece by 180 degrees - simple when you think about it right?



Those who have been following events here at Oil and Thread may remember that I wound a class 15 bobbin with navy thread ready for this project back in March! I remembered this and the as the Singer 15K was still out from making the tailor's ham the choice of machine for this project was automatic.


The first step, having cut out the fabric, is to make two button holes, near the waist, for the draw string. I usually like to make button holes with an automatic Singer buttonholer (the kind that takes a template) on my Singer 401G. This attachment (which is fab and I will show you someday) only fits Singer slant shank machines. I didn't want to drag out and set up another machine so I thought it better to try out this buttonholer, also made by Singer, which fits standard low shank sewing machines.

Singer 15 with button hole attachment
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As far as I know this model of buttonholer is more common in the UK and Australia.  It is the cream and red, face-lifted, version of the type where buttonhole length, width, bite and stitch length are all independantly adjustable.  This means that making sample buttonholes is a must!  It's a little scary but I work systematically. Get the lenth right first, then the width and the bite need to be adjusted in close conjunction with each other to produce an acceptable buttonhole. My aim, based on the pattern markings, was a half inch button hole that was wide enough for me to cut with my seam ripper and embroidery scissors.  It took me four goes to produce something I thought garment-worthy.

Button hole, bottom left passed the test!

I remembered to strengthen the button holes with interfacing saved from the cuffs of the white shirt I repurposed to make the log cabin quilt.  It's sew in rather than fusible.  I don't think that this will matter.


I am a happiest working with straight stitch machines and a real fan of flat felled and French seams so I deviated from the pattern instructions which suggested pinking and overcasting the seam allowances.  I sewed the inside leg seams, wrong sides together so that my flat felled seams would appear as a design detail on the outside of the garment.



This leaves the inside, which will be in contact with the wearer, as smooth and flush as possible.



The new tailors ham made pressing the seams so much easier.  I am a convert!

I am really happy with the way these have turned out.



9 comments:

  1. Love the flat felled seams here -may do these on pjs in the future also-fabulous finish inside the pjs. Also recycling the cuff interfacing was very clever!

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  2. Great job, Gavin. Those are very cute!

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  3. Dashing! I'd wear them out, if I were you!
    Petra

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  4. Fabulous PJs! I wonder if I can get that material here in the States?

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    1. Yes I know fabric depot in Portland, OR has it. They ship, fabricdepot.com. Construction, fire, camping, and Christmas were all prints I saw in the store. A my 15 year old son said to me "dad that is an evil store." And he loved it lol.

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  5. Nice choice on the flat felled seams - my favorite seam for comfort, strength and appearance.

    And the fabric is great!!! Do you know who made it? I gotta find some of that!

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    1. The fabric is by California-based designer Alexander Henry. This design is called "Heavy Equipment" and is/was available in at least two different colour ways. It's from a range of retro/pin-up designs they produce. It should be easy to pick up in the US. I saw that Hancock's, South Town Centre, Bloomington carried some of his range when I visited there last September.

      Hugs
      G

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  6. I bought the same fabric in a beige color way at Hancock fabrics online. They also have a cowboy themed print by the same designer. I used it for the pockets on an apron.

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    1. Great idea. There are a few designs with similar themes. I made The Much Belovéd a pair using a fireman themed called "Ready for Action" in a black colour way. A little naughty but lots of fun.

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