Saturday 29 June 2013

Negroni Shirt - Part VII

Negroni 1 is finished so I got TMB to take some pictures of it (and me).


There's something weird going on with my right shoulder.  I am supposing that this is to do with the mistake I made on that side of the collar.  


The next pictures show off the contrasting under collar and the weirdness where the right shirt front, outer yoke and under collar meet


I would shorten the sleeves, maybe as much as two inches, if I made this shirt again and use real shirting because I think that it would improve the drape.


I think the back isn't bad but could benefit from a good pressing.  Maybe the yoke is a shade wide for me?  I think I will make more shirts in the future.  I've enjoyed the challenge and the experience.  I would like to try Negroni again and hopefully improve on this first effort.  I think the first issues to address are my technical short comings and then look at fit.

14 comments:

  1. I think it looks excellent overall, Gavin. If the back is too wide, how would it be if you folded those two little pleats in back all the way to the bottom (you could narrow the pleat toward the bottom if need be) and then topstitched them down? I saw something similar on someone's custom shirt (a center pleat in this case) and it looked very cool. Great job!

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    1. Hi Peter
      Thank you for the positive comments. I have seen something similar on "Ben Sherman" mod shirts. They have a box pleat down the back which is topstitched in place so that it resembles a front placket. It's a detail that has a lots of impact and makes for a neat slim fit.
      Hugs
      G
      x

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  2. Looks great. I can't see any problems with the collar. My first apparel was t-shirts, then I stepped up to a pajama top with a collar before trying a shirt with a collar. You jumped right in and made a great shirt on your first try. Plus you did it on a treadle. I can't wait to see your next project.
    Wil

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  3. Great job! One thing I think I am seeing is that your right shoulder is slightly more sloped than the left. I wonder if the front right piece needs a little tucking at the shoulder seam to account for this extra slope. The back looks good to me near the yoke and I agree with Peter's idea of extending the pleats for a more taper look from yoke to waist.

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    1. Thanks Susan
      Some really useful feedback there. I think you are right about my shoulders. I'm not sure how best to adjust that right shoulder seam but I am going to be trawling the internet and raiding the local library for some information on fit in the very near future.
      Hugs
      G

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  4. Looks good to me. Way better than I could have done. If you hadn't mentioned the litany of "issues", no one would have noticed.

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  5. Nice shirt! I especially like the asymmetrical pocket flap.
    As for the drag lines on your right shoulder - it does look like your shoulder might be a bit more sloped, maybe even shorter and possibly tilted more forward than your left shoulder. Any one of these characteristics could create such drag lines.

    When I teach draping for fine shirtmaking, students very quickly discover how unique each person is and that we are not symmetrical as a commercial pattern would suggest.

    Width of the yoke and armscye will affect drag lines around the armhole, but it's all subjective personal style and fashion. Men's shirts seem to have become a lot more tailored in recent years - and not for just the trim and fit bodies. Personally, I think the closer the top shoulder point of a shirt pattern is to the actual shoulder point of the wearer combined with a modest sleeve cap height gives a more slimming look to a person than the over-sized armscye drooping over the shoulder look that was so popular a few years ago. Those baggy shirts may be comfortable, and people might think they are hiding something by wearing them, but IMHO I don't think it's a flattering look on any body.

    You've done an excellent job on your first shirt! It just needs a few minor tweaks in the shoulder. Depending on your style preference, you might shorten the yoke width and heighten the sleeve cap. A good pattern drafting book will help with these modifications.

    'Can't wait to see the next iteration!

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  6. Excellent job for your very first shirt! I love the under-collar fabric. Treadling gave you the needed control for a first time project like this one. I'm looking forward to seeing your next shirt.

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  7. I love it! I think you could take the shoulders in a bit but then it might not be a 'go-to', comfortable shirt for you too. You did a fantastic job on this!

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  8. I think the sleeve length looks good on you. A true half sleeve. If you are still thinking shorter - fold up a cuff.

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  9. Gavin,

    Nothing short of brilliant.

    My theory about the collar is that on the right hand side the curve of the front ended up distorting because for some of the way you were working with an edge on the bias. Collars are pigs. Don't fret. Wear it and be proud of it.

    Love,
    Muv

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  10. Hi Gavin:

    Thanks for your in depth on the Negroni; your posts helped me make the choice of pattern for a button-down Hawaiian for my husband's anniversary. 2 muslins and done. And one.

    H

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  11. Almost everyone has one low shoulder and yours is on the right. You're going to have to adjust your pattern for this next time or address it on the first baste. Try pinning/basting out the shoulder seam to account for your shoulder slope and then re-cut the pieces (including inlays) before making up.

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  12. Oh yes, and don't forget that when you remove from the shoulder (or it gets lifted whichever way you look at it), you have to redraw the opposing seams and inlays - in this case the armhole.

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